Sidemen is one of Bali’s most underrated places and my favourite backpacking destination! Sidemen (pronounced Sid-er-men) is a relatively untouched village between Ubud and Amed. With stunning Mt Agung views, rice terraces and friendly locals- I can not recommend stopping in Sidemen for a night or two enough. One of the best things about Sidemen is the locals. This is one of the few places in Bali where you’re not constantly receiving sales pitches. Nobody once tried to sell me a taxi, sarong, Bintang or pair of knock-off designer sunglasses. While you expect that in Bali, and everyone understands that’s how they make money, Sidemen is a nice break from the constant selling. The locals always smiled at me and said hi, but let me go about my day.
How to get to Sidemen
Sidemen is in the east of Bali, halfway between Ubud and Amed. It’s also only around 50 minutes from Padangbai Port if you are coming from the islands or Lombok. Most people in Sidemen travel from Ubud, looking for somewhere quieter after the hustle and bustle of Ubud city centre. You can book all transport online at 12GOAsia.
How to get to Sidemen from Ubud
Depending on traffic conditions (Ubud traffic can be crazy!), it’s around 1 hour by car or scooter from Ubud. Most people get a Grab or Gojek from Ubud, which will set you back 250k Indonesian Rupiah ($16.70 USD) for a car. The journey is incredibly scenic, and if you have the time, you can make several stops on the way, such as Goa Gajah Temple, Kanto Lampo Waterfall and Aan Secret Waterfall. One thing to keep in mind, there is no Grab or Gojek in or Sidemen, so you’ll need to negotiate a fair price with a local driver when leaving. Expect to pay a bit more when leaving Sidemen, as the local drivers know you have no other way to leave, so they charge nearly double what Grab charges.
How to get to Sidemen from Amed
It’s only about a 1-hour drive from Amed to Sidemen; however, as there are no Grab or Gojek drivers in Amed, you will need to organise a lift with a private driver. Expect to pay around 300k Indonesian Rupiah ($20 USD) for a car direct from Amed to Sidemen. However, if you want to make the most of the journey, you can combine it with several famous sights in the east of Bali. Hiring a driver for the whole day and finishing in Sidemen will cost you around 413k Indonesian Rupiah ($27 USD), which is relatively cost-effective if you find others backpacking to split the cost with. Some sights on the way include Bukit Cinta sunrise viewpoint, Tirta Gangga Water Temple and the Instagram-famous Gates of Heaven.
How many days to spend in Sidemen?
How many days you spend in Sidemen depends on whether you have a scooter or whether you will be getting around on foot. Also, if you are skipping Amed and instead using Sidemen as a base to explore sites east of Bali, you will need an extra day or two. Alternatively, if you want a nice place to chill for a few days after the hustle and bustle of backpacking Bali, Sidemen is the perfect place to do so.
By scooter, you can breeze through all the sites in Sidemen in 1 full day. If you are exploring on foot, I would allow at least 1.5-2 days (unless you fancy a super long day filled with 12 hours of hiking up and down hills to viewpoints).
How to get around Sidemen
Sidemen is such a small village that it’s super easy to get around by walking, scooter or private driver. Unfortunately, there are no Grab or Gojek drivers and no hostels or travel agencies that offer day tours or activities for those staying in Sidemen.
Getting around Sidemen by scooter
The quickest way to get around to all the sites of Sidemen is by scooter. You can rent a scooter in Amed or Ubud to get to Sidemen. Alternatively, you can rent a scooter in the village of Sidemen. There was barely any traffic on the roads, and most were in good condition. However, it’s incredibly hilly with some winding roads, which may be challenging if you’re not confident on a scooter.
Getting around Sidemen on foot
One of the things I loved about Sidemen was how easily walkable it was. There are some footpaths but only a little traffic, so you can easily walk to the side of any main roads. It is an uphill trek getting to ricefield viewpoints, but certainly doable (and you get stunning views the whole way).
My one caveat would be to be wary about walking at night as the stray dogs can get a bit nippy and are not very used to tourists. However, there’s not much to do at night anyway, so it wasn’t too much of an issue for me.
What to do in Sidemen
You can do a few activities in Sidemen and the surrounding areas, such as waterfalls and traditional weaving demonstrations. However, the main drawcard for Sidemen is the small-town vibes and just relaxing and enjoying some of the stunning ricefield views around you. There are very few tourists or even people backpacking in Sidemen, which is a nice break from travel culture.
Explore the ricefields
You don’t need to walk further than your front door step in Sidemen to see untouched rice fields. On a clear day, you can also see Mount Agung anywhere in Sidemen. Head up the winding road towards Warung Makan for the best panoramic views.
Visit a traditional weaving shop
Sidemen is equally as well-known for its rice fields as it is for its traditional weaving. You can visit many places in the village and surroundings to watch the local women weave and learn about the practice. One of the most central and popular is Pelangi Weaving. There is no fee to enter, and the locals are more than happy to share their experiences with tourists. However, they are also trying to make a living, so I recommend purchasing a woven garment or sarong or making a small donation of 20k Indonesian Rupiah ($1.30 USD) to support them.
Visit the traditional town of Iseh
Slightly further afield, but still walking distance from Sidemen, is Iseh, another village with stunning ricefield views. The walk or scooter ride to Iseh provides excellent views, and the locals are friendly and welcoming of tourists stopping by. Make sure you stop by one of the roadsides Warungs for food, drinks and great views. I recommend Warung Organic for the views!
Explore the nearby waterfalls
For total transparency, I didn’t get around to doing this when I was in Sidemen as I was a little unwell. Some waterfalls around Sidemen include a unique and little-known waterfall called Tukad Ceping. The waterfall inside a cave makes the photos stunning as the light filters through the cave opening.
Day trip to Tirta Gangaa and Gates of Heaven
If you plan to skip Amed, Sidemen is an excellent base for some of the famous sites of east Bali. I visited Tirta Gangga Water Palace and the Gates of Heaven from Amed, but I met many people backpacking who did this from Sidemen. It is slightly longer from Sidemen (about 50 minutes by car/scooter) as opposed to 30 minutes from Amed, but still easily accessible. For my full review on the Gates of Heaven and how to get the best photos at this busy tourist sight, read my Amed guide here.
Where to stay in Sidemen
Sidemen is so not-touristy compared to other parts of Bali. At the time of writing, there are no hostels or backpacking accommodations in Sidemen. I did see a few guesthouses offering dormitories/shared rooms, but they were extremely basic, so I wouldn’t classify them as hostels. Sidemen is a great place to stay in a homestay with a local family or treat yourself to a Villa/ resort room, as they are inexpensive compared to other parts of Bali. You can book all accommodations here.
Griya Valud
I loved Griya Valud for a bit of a treat-myself getaway in my private villa. The villas were luxurious with uber comfortable beds, good AC and a great bathroom with a large spa bath. There was an included breakfast every morning, which was basic but tasty. They also have the nicest infinity pool overlooking the rice fields with stunning views! One thing to note, Griya Valud is a little out of the main town, but it was a short walk to the start of the rice terrace walk, which is convenient if you don’t have a scooter.
Wapa di Ume or Samanvaya Resort
If you really want to treat yourself, Wapa di Ume and Samanvaya are well-known luxury resorts in Sidemen. They’re not your typical accommodation while backpacking, but it’s nice to mix it up a bit and y’know when in Sidemen. While I didn’t personally stay at either, I went during the day to have a bit of a nosey/ grab some food, and both were stunning. Both are smack in the middle of Sidemen town, with other luxury accommodations on either side. They also both have phenomenal infinity pools with some of the best views in Sidemen.
Where to eat in Sidemen
Given Sidemen’s size, there are only a few cafes and restaurants. However, you can get high-quality Western food at many restaurants attached to resorts. Alternatively, you can eat cheap and tasty local food from warungs.
Warung Makan
This warung is a popular stop on the way to the ricefields viewpoint. The warung has fantastic views of the surrounding area and delicious food (try the Satay sauce, you won’t regret it).
Warung Organic
Another great little warung with spectacular views! Warung Organic is a popular stop to/from the traditional village of Iseh.
Warung Ady
This warung and spa is located just on the edge of the village, with lovely ricefield views. They have daily specials for massages/ spa treatments which include free lunch.
Warung Tirta Unda
A short walk out of town, but well worth it for the sunset views opposite. Head to this warung for dinner and a sunset photoshoot in the rice fields across the road.
Asri Dining
Asri Dining is the restaurant of the luxury Samanvaya Resort and is an affordable fine-dining experience. The service was excellent, and the Western food was great and less expensive than expected. There’s outdoor and indoor seating- the outdoor seating is in a romantic little garden with pretty lights. They do discounted cocktails from 5-7 every night for happy hour.
Nightlife
Apart from a drink with dinner or even a couple of post-dinner drinks, Sidemen has no nightlife. Most local warungs don’t even serve alcohol with meals- only juice. It’s not where you would come for nightlife, so it’s an excellent detox destination if you’ve been partying too much in other places in Bali.
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