Koh Samui is a large island in the Gulf of Thailand (the east side of Thailand). It neighbours the island of Koh Phangan and Koh Tao. While Koh Phangan is known for the Full Moon Party and Koh Tao for diving, Koh Samui is more of a typical vacation island. Families, couples and honeymooners greatly outnumber those backpacking on Koh Samui. Koh Samui is a bit more expensive than the neighbouring islands, so it is not the most backpacker budget friendly. If you do visit, see it as your chance to be a bougie flashpacker for a couple of days and really treat yourself!

How many days to spend in Koh Samui

The majority of backpacker or budget travellers I met skipped Koh Samui, going straight from Koh Phangan to Koh Tao or vice versa. If you are short on time on the Gulf Islands, Koh Samui is skippable. If you do have the time, it is a nice beach, a relaxed destination between the crazy nightlife of Koh Phangan and all the diving on Koh Tao. Depending on how many chill beach days you want, anywhere between 2-4 days would be enough for Koh Samui. If you’re wanting to sightsee, two days would be perfect. Four days would allow for sightseeing, but also two relax on the beach days.

How to get to Koh Samui

Koh Samui does have an international airport, so it is pretty accessible if you want to fly in. Given it has a luxury honeymoon reputation, the airport taxes are more expensive than other places in Thailand. So expect flight prices to be higher. There are direct flights into Koh Samui from Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket, Krabi, Singapore and Hong Kong. Unless you get a really good deal on a flight or are super short on time, chances are you will be getting to Koh Samui via ferry and bus or train. For all bus, ferry and train bookings, one of the most reliable websites is 12GOAsia.

How to get to Koh Samui from Bangkok by bus and ferry

The cheapest and most common way for a backpacker to get to Koh Samui from Bangkok is a night bus and then a ferry. But beware, the bus ride is pretty uncomfortable and smelly from the toilet on-board. Depending on which company you use, you will transfer from the ferry to the bus at Chumphon or Suratthani Port. The journey will take between 10-16 hours, depending on the time of day. Expect to pay around 729- 1139 THB Thai Baht ($21-$32 USD) for the entire journey. Buses depart Bangkok at 6 am (not an overnight bus), 7 pm and 9 pm daily.

How to get to Koh Samui from Bangkok by train and ferry

The best way for a backpacker to get from Bangkok to Koh Samui, in my opinion, and from my experience, is by night train and ferry. You must book these as two separate tickets on 12GOAsia as a self-transfer, so allow extra time between the train arrival and ferry departure. Firstly, you must book a train ticket from Bangkok to Surat Thani. The train journey takes around 12-13 hours on a sleeper train. Make sure you purchase a “sleeper” seat that converts to a bed instead of a regular seat that will not move. Multiple train times depart Bangkok Train station at regular intervals from 5:30 pm to 10 pm, bound for Surat Thani.

Next, you will need to book a ferry/van combined ticket from Surat Thani Train Station to Koh Samui. The van and ferry transfer takes around 4-5 hours. These run daily at 5:30 am, 7 am, 8 am, 10 am, 11 am, 1 pm, 3 pm and 4 pm. The journey will take you around 17 hours and cost around between 774-960 THB Thai Baht ($23-28 USD). Make sure you book your van ticket to pick you up at Surat Thani Train Station and not the bus terminal or the port, as these pickups are not close together.

How to get to Koh Samui from Kao Tao

A few ferries and speedboats are operating between Koh Tao and Koh Samui. There is only one place on Koh Tao where ferries and speedboats depart, and it is very easy to get there from most hostels. There are three speedboat times daily: 7 am, 9:30 am and 3 pm. The speedboat takes about 90 minutes and costs around 480 THB Thai Baht ($14 USD). There is also a ferry departing daily at 9:30 am which takes 3.5 hours and costs 390 THB Thai Baht ($11 USD). Speedboats will arrive at Maenam Pier, and the ferry arrives at Na Thon Pier. Regardless of where you arrive, you will need to get a van, taxi or bus to where you’re staying. If you’re in the Chaweng Beach area, Maenam Pier is about 20 minutes closer than the ferry pier.

How to get to Koh Samui from Koh Phangan

Plenty of ferries and speedboats are running between Koh Phangan and Koh Samui. Speedboats depart daily at 8 am, 11 am, 12:30 pm, 3:30 pm and 4:30 pm. The journey takes only 30 minutes and will cost 230 THB Thai Baht ($6.50 USD). Ferries depart at 8 am, 9:30 am, 10:30 am, 12 pm and 4 pm. The journey takes 45 minutes to an hour, and it costs 180 THB Thai Baht ($5.30 USD).

There are three piers/ports on Koh Samui where ferries arrive at Bangrak/ Haad Rin Queen Pier, Na Thon and Maenam. Make sure you check which one is closest to your accommodation to save money on transport from the port. If you’re staying in the main area of Koh Samui (Chaweng Beach), the closest is Bangrak.

How to get to Koh Samui from Phi Phi Island

The majority of travellers coming from Phi Phi Island will stop at either Krabi or Phuket before jumping on a bus and ferry to Koh Samui. However, it is possible to get from these islands to Phi Phi Island all in one day, but it is a very long travel day. You can book a combined ticket on 12GOAsia involving a ferry, a bus/van transfer, and another ferry. The benefit to booking a combined ticket is that all connections are guaranteed through the company you book with. The first ferry from Phi Phi departs at either 9 am or 10:30 am and arrives in Koh Samui around 6.5-8 hours later. Expect to pay around 775-1000 THB Thai Baht ($22-$29 USD) for all connections.

How to get to Koh Samui from Phuket

To get to Koh Samui from Phuket, you will need to catch a bus to Surat Thani and then get a ferry to Koh Samui. You can purchase this as a combined ticket on 12GOAsia. The bus departs from Phuket Terminal 2 in Phuket town at 7:30 am. You will arrive at Na Thon Pier in Koh Samui at 3:30 pm on the same day. The combined ticket costs between 430 THB Thai Baht ($12.50 USD).

How to get to Koh Samui from Krabi, Ao Nang or Railay Beach

To get to Koh Samui from Krabi or Ao Nang, you will need to catch a bus to Surat Thani and then get a ferry to Koh Samui. There are combined tickets on 12GOAsia departing from both Ao Nang and Krabi. The pickup point in Krabi is the main bus terminal, and in Ao Nang is the Ao Nang Mao Pier. Buses depart roughly every hour from 9 am until 1:30 pm. The journey takes between 5-7 hours, depending on what time of day you book. Expect to pay between 387-590 THB Thai Baht ($11-17 USD). Ferries arrive at either Lia Noi, Na Thon or Maenam Pier. Of the three arrival piers, Maenam is around 20 minutes closer to Chaweng Beach than the others, but all are on the opposite side of the island.

How to get to Koh Samui from Khao Sok National Park

To get from Khao Sok National Park to Koh Samui, you will next jump in a shared van and then on a ferry from Surat Thani port. You can buy this as a combined ticket on 12GOAsia or from your hostel or travel agency in Khao Sok. Vans depart from the main terminal in Khao Sok at 9 am daily. The terminal is within walking distance from most hostels, but often if you book the ticket through the hostel, they will throw in a free transfer to the terminal. The journey takes 6.5 hours, and you will arrive at Koh Samui Lipa Noi Pier at 3:30 pm. Expect to pay 390 THB Thai Baht ($11 USD) for the whole journey.

How to get around Koh Samui

I’m going, to be honest, Koh Samui is a bit trickier to get around if you don’t drive a scooter. There are very few places you can get to on foot. All of the sights, like the waterfalls and temples, you will need a scooter or car to get to. There isn’t really any public transport around Koh Samui. Most of the vacationers will either stay at their all-inclusive resorts or hire a driver for the day to get around. There is technically Grab in Koh Samui, but there are very few drivers. I tried to use Grab without success whilst there, and nobody I met had successfully booked a Grab, so please don’t rely on Grab!

Getting around Koh Samui on foot

If you stay in the Chaweng Beach area, you will be able to get to cafes, night markets, restaurants, bars and Chaweng Beach on foot. Other than this, there’s nowhere else that’s really walkable. If you plan on coming to Koh Samui to relax on the beach or detox from the Full Moon Party, then you won’t need to worry too much about getting around. However, if you do want to visit some sights, you will either need to rent a scooter, hire a driver for the day or join a group tour.

Getting around Koh Samui by scooter

Hiring a scooter for the day is one of the best ways to explore Koh Samui! You can rent one for as little as 200 THB Thai Baht ($6 USD) daily. Obviously, this depends on whether you can safely drive a scooter and whether you have an international license (or are willing to risk getting fined). There is one circle ring road around Koh Samui which tends to be busy. Many of the smaller roads are quieter, but there are often potholes or other hazards.

Getting around Koh Samui by a private driver or tour

If you don’t feel comfortable driving a scooter in Koh Samui (and won’t worry, me too!), the best way to get around is to hire a driver for the day. Unfortunately, you will find on Koh Samui prices to hire a driver for a day or for tours are much more expensive than in other parts of Thailand. Expect to pay a minimum of 2500 THB Thai Baht ($72 USD) per car. If you are splitting this between a few people, it is not too expensive. You will need to haggle to get a good price on this (make sure you have a clear idea of where you want to stop). Hiring a private driver for the day is great as you can stop wherever you want and don’t have any time limits on how long you spend at each stop.

The alternative to getting around by scooter or by private driver would be to join a group tour. This will be the priciest option and with the least flexibility as you’re on a set itinerary with times. The most popular backpacker tour on Koh Samui is Mr Ung’s Magical Safari Tour. It runs daily from 10 am- 5 pm and costs 1700 THB Thai Baht ($50 USD) per person. Mr Ung’s Magical Safari involves driving around in a group of big red Jeeps off-road through the Jungle, stopping off at all the major sights in Koh Samui. The tour and mode of transport is an experience in itself! The price includes a tour guide, driver, all entry fees into attractions and lunch. You can book this through any hostel or travel agency or direct through their website here.

Where to stay in Koh Samui

The main backpacker area of Koh Samui is undoubtedly Chaweng Beach, which is where like 70% of the hostels are. This is also the main nightlife area, which is pretty busy and crowded. If you are looking for something quiet, there are a few hostels on Lipa Noi, Lamai Beach and Bangrak, which are away from the hustle and bustle. The main downside of staying in places other than Chaweng Beach is you do need to think about how you’re going to get around. If you want to go to the bars, taxis there are back will be an added expense, and they hike up the prices on Koh Samui! Areas like Lamai Beach are better for people wanting to chill and not really party who have scooters to get around and sightsee. You can book all accommodation online here.

Lub D Chaweng Beach

The most well-known hostel in Koh Samui! This is definitely a flashpacker hostel and feels more like a fancy resort. They have beds with curtains, and instead of a ladder, you have a proper staircase to the top bunk (it’s THAT fancy!). They have two pools surrounded by hammocks, day beds and bean bags. Lub D Chaweng Beach also has a swim-up bar and restaurant on site. The location is right on the beach but also right in the centre of Chaweng Beach, close to bars, restaurants and the night market. The only downside to Lub D is the bar and restaurant are pretty pricey compared to other restaurants and bars around.

Chill Inn Lamai Hostel and Beach Cafe

This hostel isn’t in Chaweng Beach but tucked away to the south on the quieter Lamai Beach. It’s about half of the price of a bed at Lub D. The Koh Samui hostel is more of a typical backpacker hostel rather than a flashpacker hostel. The beds don’t have curtains, and they don’t have a fancy swim-up pool bar, but it is very social! You probably want to rent a scooter if you are staying here as it is not really near much and taxis are expensive in Koh Samui. They do have a reasonably priced bar and restaurant on site, and they are right on Lamai Beach!

What to do in Koh Samui

Koh Samui has lots to offer a lot of different sights, from temples to beaches to waterfalls. Make sure you plan how you will get to these sights, as very few are walkable from the main area of Chaweng Beach. Most people will visit these sights on a scooter, with a private driver or on a day tour.

Hin Ta and Hin Ya Rocks

These rocks, also known as the Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks, are famous as they resemble male and female genitals. You don’t need much time here, but it is a fun photo stop. If you’re staying in the Lamai Beach area, the rocks will be walkable. There’s no entry fee, but there is a 10 THB Thai Baht ($0.30 USD) fee for scooter parking. Be mindful that it can be pretty slippery walking down to where Grandmother Rock is. I personally found it easier to walk barefoot as my shoes didn’t have a good grip.

Chaweng Beach

Chaweng Beach is stunning and right on your door if you stay at Lub D! The water is Gatorade blue, and the sand is white and clean. There are some places where you can rent day beds and loungers for a price. Or, if you can, head to Lub D, where you just need to purchase a drink or food from the bar to stay there.

The Big Buddha (Wat Phra Yai)

As the name would suggest, this sight is a big golden Buddha! It’s located on a little island just off Koh Samui, connected by a road. As this is a religious site, you will need to cover your knees, stomach and shoulders and not wear anything see-through or lowcut. It’s completely free to enter, but donations for the upkeep of the Buddha are welcome! There are about 70 steps to climb up to the top where the Buddha is, which is recommended to visit. But you can still view it from the ground without climbing any stairs.

Wat Plai Laem

Just around the corner from the Big Buddha is Wat Plai Laem Temple. This is probably one of the most impressive temples in South East Asia. There are multiple large statues and temples, all on their own islands in the middle of a lake. It is really cool walking around and marvelling at all the massive and ornate structures. As this is a religious site, you will need to cover your knees, stomach and shoulders and not wear anything see-through or lowcut. Entry is free, but donations are welcome.

Tarnim Magic Garden (Secret Buddha Garden)

Tucked away in the middle of the jungle is the secret Buddha garden, a pretty random tourist sight but super beautiful. It is famous as it contains hundreds of statues of Buddha, animals and humans. The statues were made and placed there by a local Thai farmer for his own enjoyment. The garden and lush jungle have grown around the statues, making it a really peaceful and beautiful spot. The road to the secret garden is super rough, so make sure you are a confident scooter driver to get here! There is an entrance charge of 80 THB Thai Baht ($2.30 USD).

Wat Klunaram (mummified monk)

Another kind of strange but also fascinating tourist sight on Koh Samui! They literally have a mummified monk preserved and sitting upright in a glass casket for everyone to see. In life, the monk was a really devout man, and the fact that his body did not decay is considered a miracle. That is why it is displayed and worshipped in the temple. As this is a religious site, you will need to cover your knees, stomach and shoulders and not wear anything see-through or lowcut. There is no entry charge to visit the mummified monk.

Namuang Waterfall

Namuang Waterfall is a really popular site on Koh Samui! There are two sections. The higher section is only suitable as a photo stop. The upper section is such a popular photo stop that there is usually a queue to get a photo in front of the waterfall! In the lower section, you can swim, but the current caused by the waterfall can be strong. Make sure you leave your bag within view or have someone that can watch your bag while you go in. There is an entrance fee of 30 THB Thai Baht ($0.90 USD) per person.

Where to eat in Koh Samui

Many hostels in Koh Samui also have restaurants and bars on site. While this is super convenient, be warned, they charge top dollar. Food, in general, is a bit more expensive in Koh Samui, so it tends not to be as backpacker budget friendly. This is particularly true around the main tourist area Chaweng Beach.

Chaweng Night Market

This is one of the most affordable places for dinner! The Chaweng Night Market runs every night from about 6 pm until around 11 pm. They have a range of stalls selling different foods, drinks and desserts. The market is actually right in the middle of Central Samui Shopping Mall, so you do have to cut through the mall to get to the food stalls. It is right in the middle of the Chaweng Beach area, so easily walkable if you are staying in any of the hostels in this area.

Curry Pot

This restaurant is right next to Lub D Chaweng Beach (the alleyway entrance of Chaweng Beach Road, not the beach entrance). They do a range of really great Indian curries for an affordable price (affordable compared to every else in Koh Samui).

Ladda Doi or Sea View Restaurant

If you want a restaurant with a view, either Ladda Doi or Sea View Restaurants are your best bet! They’re both located right in the centre of Koh Samui and have stunning panoramic views of the island. Both restaurants sell affordable Thai food, but what you are really coming for is the view. They’re both open from 8 am-6 pm, so ideal for a lunch stop or an early dinner. You will need either a scooter or have hired a driver for the day to get here as they are in the middle of the jungle in the centre of the island.

Nightlife in Koh Samui

Whilst it’s not going to be as crazy as the Full Moon Party or Khao San Road in Bangkok, Koh Samui does have a bit of nightlife. Most are concentrated around the Chaweng Beach area. This is why this is the best spot to stay in, as you can walk home from the bars. As with everything, drink prices do seem to be inflated. Also, the majority of people in bars in Koh Samui are Australian vacationers as opposed to people backpacking.

Bar hop along Chaweng Beach Road

The best place to go out is the strip of bars on the same street as The Green Mango Bar. You have a fair bit of choice on this little strip, like Irish Pubs, Reggae Bars, Cocktail, Dive Bars and Clubs. You have plenty of choices, and it’s easy to bar-hop between all the different places. Pre-warning, some bars are a bit skeezy and only contain middle-aged Australian men playing pool and flirting with Thai girls who look like they’re about 15 years old. The majority of the bars are okay, but there are one or two along this strip that I would avoid.

Lub D Chaweng Beach

Lub D Chaweng Beach is open to the public even if you aren’t staying there, and they have a pretty good bar! Some nights they have fire shows on the beach. Other times they have beer pong or a pool party with a DJ. It’s a good place to start the night before heading to other bars around Chaweng Beach Road. The only thing to note is the drinks are a bit pricey on a backpacker budget, but so is everything in Koh Samui!

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