The Hai Van Pass is a famous travel experience in the centre of Vietnam, which can be commenced from either Hue, Hoi An or Da Nang. This guide will cover absolutely everything you need to know about the Hai Van Pass, suitable for everyone from those who have never heard of it to those who have already booked it and want more information. I completed the Hai Van in late 2023 with an easy-rider, with the majority of this guide being based on this experience. In this guide, I’ll unpack how the Hai Van Pass works, whether you should self-drive or go with an easy rider, what to expect, what stops to make, what to bring and whether or not I think the experience is worth it!
What is the Hai Van Pass?
The Hai Van Pass is a 21-kilometre scenic road connecting Hoi An/ Da Nang and Hue. The road is full of twists and turns, with stunning changes in scenery from city to mountains to beach and is best experienced on a motorbike. Being featured on adventure shows like Top Gear, the Hai Van Pass is a famous experience that is high on many travellers’ bucket lists. While the Hai Van Pass itself is only 21 kilometres long and takes less than 1 hour to complete, it is almost always combined with stops before and after, with the whole one-way experience taking around 8 hours with stops.
These stops can include the Golden Bridge, Marble Mountain, Lang Co Beach, the Dragon Bridge, and other local waterfalls, hikes and viewpoints. You can complete the Hai Van Pass in either direction; it makes no difference in terms of the experience, and you’ll see the same sights. I started the Hai Van Pass in Hoi An (via Da Nang) and finished in Hue, but you could also just do Da Nang to Hue or start in Hue and finish in either Hoi An or Da Nang.
How to travel the Hai Van Pass
Traditionally, the Hai Van Pass is completed by driving yourself on a motorbike/moped. However, there are many options for completing the Hai Van Pass if you don’t feel comfortable driving yourself. You can do it with an easy rider, which means you sit on the back of a motorbike, which is driven by an experienced local driver who also acts as a guide. If you don’t like the idea of being on a motorbike at all, you can also do this route via a Jeep Tour or via tour (both with a driver). While you’ll still see all the same stops and views, you do miss out on the adrenaline/ adventure portion of doing the Hai Van Pass on a motorbike.
Should you drive yourself or go with an easy rider for the Hai Van Pass?
There are a few things you should consider before deciding to drive yourself versus getting an easy rider. I went back and forth over my decision and ended up going with an easy rider. Regardless of whether you go with an easy rider or drive yourself, you’ll still have a great experience. But here are a few things you should factor into your decision:
Driving Ability
This is a major factor in travellers’ decisions to hire an easy rider or drive themselves. The Hai Van Pass itself (while being easier than the Ha Giang Loop in the north of Vietnam) has many twists and turns and different driving conditions. Trucks and larger vehicles drive on the Hai Van Pass, so this is an added hazard when navigating the turns of the road. Depending on the Hai Van Pass route you take, you may pass through the busy city of Da Nang, and you will definitely need to drive on busier roads with traffic in either Hue or Hoi An (it’s unavoidable).
If you have never driven a motorbike/moped before in Southeast Asia, I would not be learning on the Hai Van Pass. A good alternative would be to take a motorbike lesson with an instructor the days before attempting the pass. Many big cities like Hoi An, Da Nang and Hue will have motorbike rental companies that offer paid lessons to prepare you for the Hai Van Pass.
Whether you have an international driver’s license
In Vietnam, you need an international driver’s license to drive a motorbike. That being said, many people drive without one, but they risk a hefty fine if there’s a police checkpoint or they get pulled over. Depending on your haggling skills and the police officer’s mood, this fine could be anywhere from 365k to 1 million VND Vietnamese Dong ($15 USD-$60 USD). If you don’t have an international license, you may not want to risk being fined.
Weather Conditions
The day I did the Hai Van Pass, it was raining torrentially, and parts of the roads were flooded. There were very few tourists driving themselves in these weather conditions, with most opting for easy riders instead. If it’s raining, you want to be a confident driver.
Enjoying the views vs feeling of accomplishment knowing you drove yourself
It really depends on what you want to get out of the Hai Van Pass. Ask yourself: Do you want the feeling of accomplishment of saying you drove the Hai Van Pass yourself, or do you want just to be able to enjoy the views and take videos while not having to concentrate on the road? The downside of driving yourself is you are paying attention to the roads more than the views, and you will have to stop for photos/videos. Whereas, if you go with an easy-rider, you can take photos and record whenever you want, and you can really relax on the back, taking in all the views.
Price
Driving yourself is the most cost-effective way to experience the Hai Van Pass. Prices are around 500 VND Vietnamese Dong ($20 USD) if you drive yourself, depending on the company and type of motorbike. With an easy rider, expect to pay around 1.2 million VND Vietnamese Dong ($50 USD).
Hai Van Pass vs. Ha Giang Loop
There are a lot of comparisons online between the Hai Van Pass and the Ha Giang Loop. They’re both motorbike adventures in Vietnam involving stunning scenery and adventurous twists and turns on the road. Apart from that, they are worlds apart in terms of experience. The Ha Giang Loop is 3-4 days and involves travelling in a group and staying in homestays of a night. For me, Ha Giang Loop is 50% adventure, motorbiking and scenery and 50% making friends, socialising, karaoke and partying. The Hai Van Pass is only one day and can be done completely independently or can be done in a group at your own pace. It’s only as social as you make it, and if you’re doing it as a solo traveller unless you’ve made friends beforehand and booked motorbikes with others, you’ll be completing the pass on your own or just your easy rider.
Trying to decide between the Hai Van Pass and the Ha Giang Loop is an impossible decision. Ideally, you would do both, as neither experience is a substitute for the other. The Ha Giang Loop is the most popular of the two experiences by a long shot. However, the Hai Van Pass is still an amazing one-day adventure, combining sightseeing with the logistics of travelling between two destinations.
Travel Tip for the Ha Giang Loop
If you’re travelling south to north Vietnam, the Hai Van Pass is a great tester for those wanting to drive themselves on the Ha Giang Loop. The Ha Giang Loop is essentially a multi-day Hai Van Pass (with slightly trickier driving conditions). If you plan on driving the Hai Van Pass as a tester before attempting to drive yourself on the Ha Giang Loop, make sure you rent a semi-automatic bike for the Hai Van Pass. This will more closely mimic the vehicle and conditions of driving the Ha Giang Loop.
What to expect on the Hai Van Pass
Regardless of whether you are driving yourself or going with an easy rider, the experience of the Hai Van Pass and what to expect is virtually the same. Once you’ve decided whether you’re going to drive yourself or go with an easy rider, you’ll need to book your Hai Van Pass experience at least the day before you plan on going. You have to go through a tour company or motorbike rental company that offers Hai Van Pass rentals as you have to certain specifications on the power of the motorbike. You’ll also only be driving the motorbike one way, so they need to have an agency in the other city where you drop the bike off. Lots of companies offer Hai Van Pass rentals, and if you book it through your hostel, generally, it includes free pickup at the hostel.
What happens with your luggage on the Hai Van Pass?
What you do with your larger luggage item depends on whether you self-drive or go with an easy rider. If you go with an easy rider, they secure it to the back of their bike with ropes and cover it in plastic to protect it from rain and dirt. If you self-drive, they send your larger luggage ahead of you in a vehicle, which gets dropped off and stored at your hostel in the city you end up in. The luggage generally arrives mid-afternoon (at the latest), so by the time you arrive in late afternoon, your luggage is waiting for you.
You can only bring one smaller backpack or bag with you for the day, but you really don’t need much with you for the Hai Van Pass. This bag either gets stored in the storage compartment of your bike, tied to the back, or you can even drive with it on your back if you prefer.
What time do you start the Hai Van Pass
You can start the Hai Van Pass at any time you like, but the earlier you start, the better, as you don’t want to be driving once it gets dark. The majority of people depart at either 8 am or 9 am and will arrive in their destination city at either 4 pm or 5 pm. This time can vary depending on the time of year and how early/late it starts to get dark. The earlier you leave, the more flexibility you have to stay longer at each stop and really take your time. Depending on your confidence and driving abilities, you’ll probably be driving along the Hai Van Pass much slower than local drivers, so you need to factor in more time for this.
Depending on the company you book with, you may have to drop the motorbike off by a certain time that evening. Make sure you double-check the exact process and requirements before you depart. If you go with an easy rider, they drop you at your hostel after completing the Hai Van Pass, usually by 5 pm. By the end of the day, most people are pretty exhausted! It’s a long time sitting on the bike, which makes your butt sore, some of the stops include a fair bit of walking/stairs, and it’s just a long day, all-in-all.
What to bring on the Hai Van Pass
What you bring on the Hai Van Pass depends on which stops you make and the weather conditions. You won’t have access to your larger luggage items, so you need to pack everything into a smaller bag, which will go on your back or in the luggage compartment storage of the motorbike.
- Long Pants. You’ll need long pants to cover your knees to enter the Marble Mountains, as it’s a sacred site. If you’re driving yourself, it’s recommended that you wear pants the whole time in the worst-case scenario that you have an accident, as it protects your skin against gravel.
- Sarong. If you’re wearing a bikini top or other low-cut top, you must bring a sarong to cover your shoulders to enter the Marble Mountains. You can also use your sarong as a towel for Lang Co Beach. If you don’t have a sarong, you’ll need to pack both a towel and a t-shirt to cover your shoulders (which ends up being more things to pack in your day pack).
- Swimwear. If you plan on stopping at Lang Co Beach or a waterfall, you’ll want to either wear or bring swimwear so you can swim. There are restaurants along the beach with bathrooms where you can change into swimwear if needed. At the waterfalls, they also have restrooms you can use.
Other items that are not necessary but good to have
- Closed-Toe Shoes. If you are driving yourself, closed-toe shoes are better in case of a worst-case scenario where you have an accident, as they protect your skin against gravel. There’s also a fair bit of stairs and caves you can enter at The Marble Mountains, which are better with closed-toe shoes. You can get away with sandals if you’re going with an easy rider.
- Airpods/ Headphones. AirPods are better for wearing with a helmet, but you could also get away with headphones. If you’re driving yourself, you’ll need to use Google Maps to navigate between the stops. It’s much easier to have the navigation giving you directions in your ear than having to pull over and physically check your phone screen. If you’re a passenger, listening to music can really enhance the experience of the Hai Van Pass.
- Sunscreen. You’ll be out of the elements for most of the day, and it’s easy to get sunburnt on the back of a bike as the wind factor gives the illusion that it’s less hot than it really is.
What not to bring on the Hai Van Pass
- Food, drinks or snacks. There are many stops along the way where you can buy food, drinks, or snacks. Bringing them with you adds extra weight and takes up space in your day-pack. The only thing I brought was a bottle of water for the day.
- Sunglasses or a hat. You may want to bring these for your time on Lang Co Beach, but you won’t need them while on the motorbike, as the helmets are heavy-duty with visors and eye protection.
- Warm clothing. The central region of Vietnam is tropical, meaning it does have a wet season, but it’s not cold. Unless you are someone who really feels the cold, you probably won’t need any kind of jumper, sweater or jacket. I did the Hai Van Pass on the rainiest day in the wet season, but it was so humid that I was still sweating even when it was pouring.
- Rain jackets/ poncho. Most companies will provide you with these items if you’re doing the Hai Van Pass in the wet season. Double-check with the company when you book it, but they usually provide it.
Hai Van Pass Stops
These are the main stops of the Hai Van Pass. There are some alternative routes and stops you can make, which I’ll detail in the section below. All of these sights can actually be visited as day trips from either Hue or Da Nang/ Hoi An independently. So, if you’ve already visited any of these sights, you may want to skip them or change the route slightly. This route can be travelled in either direction, but the below list will focus on doing the Hai Van Pass from Hoi An to Hue in the order you would visit these sights.
The Marble Mountains
This is a must-do either on your Hai Van Pass day or while you’re staying in Hoi An or Da Nang. The Marble Mountains are a number of limestone peaks where you can explore caves, grottos, tunnels and temples built among the mountains. It costs 40k VND Vietnamese Dong ($1.50 USD) to enter. To get to the top, you have two options: an elevator, which costs an additional 55k VND Vietnamese Dong ($2.50 USD) or climb a stairway of 155 steps. There are so many sights to explore here, so ideally, you would allow around 2 hours for this stop.
The Dragon Bridge in Da Nang
This is mainly just a photo stop to see the Dragon Bridge, which is one the way (the name really says it all; it’s a cool bridge that looks like a Dragon). You would spend less than 5 minutes at this stop.
The Hai Van Pass
After you’ve left the city behind, you’ll commence on the actual section of the road, which is the Hai Van Pass. There aren’t many actual “stops” on this section of the road, but travellers will regularly pull over (where safe) to get photos of various coastal views, pictures of trains passing and to take selfies in the circle mirrors on the bends. Taking it slow and with regular stops, the Hai Van Pass section of the road will probably take you around 45 minutes to 90 minutes to complete.
Cà Phê Hòn Đá Thuyền Coffee Shop
This is a must-stop on the Hai Van Pass. It’s a really cool coffee shop up in the clouds with stunning views. It’s free to enter, but you will need to buy a coffee, water or snack. If you walk down the steps, you’ll see the famous rock ledge where many travellers get their Hai Van Pass photos. You can purchase food here, but I would recommend waiting to get lunch on Lang Co Beach, as there are more food options. Most people spend around 15-30 minutes here having a coffee, enjoying the views and taking photos on the rock ledge.
Lang Co Beach
You should aim to get here for lunchtime to eat some fresh seafood at one of the beachside restaurants. If you don’t fancy seafood, don’t worry; they have plenty of other great food options. Lang Co Beach is usually a halfway point in the Hai Van Pass day tour, so feel free to spend more time here to rest your legs and butt before getting back on the bike. You could walk up and down the beach, go a swim, take a nap in the sun or read a book. Most people spend 1-2 hours here, including the time taken to have lunch.
Thác Nhị Hồ Waterfall
The main waterfall stop used to be Elephant Springs, but as of 2023, developers have purchased the area around the waterfalls as private property for a resort, so you cannot access it. Most people will either stop at Thác Nhị Hồ or Rhododendron Falls. Thác Nhị Hồ is better for swimming and quieter. Rhododendron Falls is a bit more adventurous as you have to hike 20 minutes there, using ropes to help you; however, it’s not the best waterfall for swimming as the swimming area is smaller. You should allow around 45 minutes at the Thác Nhị Hồ waterfall if you’re swimming or an hour if you hiking to Rhododendron Falls.
Alternative stops in Hue
After you’ve visited the waterfalls, depending on how much time you have, you may want to head directly to Hue or otherwise make some stops on the outside of the city. From the waterfalls to the centre of Hue, it’s around a 60-90-minute drive, depending on traffic. If you’ve not spent that long at stops like Lang Co Beach and the waterfalls, and it’s early afternoon, you could stop at a few places in Hue. The Mausoleum of Emperor Minh Mang, The Mausoleum of Emperor Khai Dinh and the Abandoned Waterpark are all in the South of Hue. To visit all of these sights, you would need around 3-4 hours. If you don’t have time on your Hai Van Pass day, you can visit them easily from Hue.
Alternative stops in Hoi An/ Da Nang
A popular alternative to The Marble Mountains is the Golden Bridge at Ba Na Hills (the social media-famous Hand Bridge). You would not have time to visit both Ba Na Hills and the Marble Mountains on the same day before commencing the Hai Van Pass as they are in different directions and require more time to explore. While the Golden Bridge used to be an extremely popular sight for backpackers to visit, in recent years, due to rising popularity, the price of entry has gone up astronomically.
As of 2023, it costs 750k VND Vietnamese Dong ($33 USD) just to visit the Hand Bridge and get that iconic photo. The cost has made many travellers rethink whether they need to visit this site. If you are still keen on visiting, you could also visit it as a stand-alone day trip from Hoi An or Da Nang, or you could skip Marble Mountains and visit it as a part of the Hai Van Pass day trip.
Besides the Golden Bridge, you could also visit some beaches near Da Nang/ Hoi An, such as Anh Banh Beach, My Khe Beach and Hidden Beach. If you’re ending in Da Nang, My Khe Beach would be your last stop. If you’re ending the Hai Van Pass in Hoi An, you could do An Banh Beach or Hidden Beach as your last stop before dropping your bike off. I would only be visiting these stops as additional stops if you had time at the end of your Hai Van Pass day, as opposed to prioritising them over other popular stops on the route.
Is the Hai Van Pass worth it?
Even though I completed the Hai Van Pass in torrential rain, it was still one of the best experiences I had in Vietnam. If you plan on travelling between the cities of Hue and Hoi An/ Da Nang, the Hai Van Pass is the best way to combine sightseeing with the logistics of getting between these two cities. The alternative way to travel between these cities is a 3-4 hour train or bus ride, where you would miss the majority of the scenery and wouldn’t get to experience the twists and turns of the Hai Van Pass. The Hai Van Pass combines a bit of adventure with sightseeing and beaches. It is a long day but such a worthwhile experience, particularly if you love having the wind in your hair and being on a motorbike.
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