Moalboal, a coastal gem on the southwest coast of Cebu, Philippines, is a must-visit while backpacking the Philippines. It has amazing diving, snorkelling, and canyoning, as well as so many stunning waterfalls, great beaches, and just generally a cute beach town vibe. Moalboal has many attractions (such as the famous Sardine Run) and is a destination that suits many different types of travellers. This guide will cover everything you need to know, from how many days to spend here, how to get there and how to get around. I’ll also give you my best hostel, food, activity and nightlife recommendations so you can have the best time in Moalboal!
How many days to spend in Moalboal
While Moalboal can be visited as a day trip from Cebu City, this would be a rushed way to experience the area. At a minimum, I would aim for two days (getting the earliest bus on day one and the latest night bus on day 2) to maximise time in Moalboal.
For backpackers aiming to fully experience Moalboal’s beaches, diving, canyoneering, waterfalls and nightlife, 3-4 days is recommended (including travel days to and from Cebu). This timeframe would allow you to explore at a relaxed pace with plenty of time to chill on the beach. If you really want to chill out, you could even spend a full week in Moalboal, chilling and enjoying the small-town vibes.
How to get to Moalboal
Moalboal is located on the island of Cebu, in the middle of the Philippines. Moalboal does not have an airport or inter-island ferry port, so it is only accessible overland from the large transport hub of Cebu City. Unfortunately, that means that if you visit Moalboal, you must come from and backtrack through Cebu City (in most travel routes). However, Cebu City has an international and domestic airport, so it is easily accessible from the majority of destinations in the Philippines. It is also connected to Oslob by overland and by ferry, as well as to Malapascua, Bohol, Siquijor, and even Siargao. If you are trying to get to Moalboal from anywhere in the Philippines other than Cebu City, you will need first to get a plane, bus or ferry to Cebu and then a direct bus from Cebu City to Moalboal.
How to get to Moalboal from Cebu City
Getting to Moalboal is fairly simple, starting from Cebu City, the gateway for most travellers arriving on the island. First, you’ll need to head to The South Bus Terminal in Cebu City. From this bus terminal, air-conditioned and non-A/C buses are heading to Moalboal. There is no official bus schedule, but buses run 24 hours a day at intervals of 30-60 minutes.
Having experienced both the A/C and non-A/C bus, I think paying more and potentially waiting for the A/C bus is super worthwhile! For an A/C bus, you can expect to pay 210 PHP Philippine Pesos ($4 USD); for a non-A/C bus, expect to pay 170 PHP Philippine Pesos ($3 USD). Just a pre-warning: the buses are pretty basic, often cramped, and even the A/C bus is still a pretty sweaty ride. The journey will take around 2-4 hours (depending on traffic), with one bathroom/ snack stop, which is somewhat annoying and quite close to Moalboal.
Make sure you let the bus driver know you are getting off at Moalboal and be listening out for the stop. The bus continues south to Dumaguete, so try not to fall asleep and miss your stop, or you’ll end up hours away from Moalboal. These buses drop passengers at the Moalboal bus stop. This is on the main road, around a 40-minute walk from most of the hostels. However, plenty of tricycles are waiting here to take you to your final destination, Panagsama Beach or White Beach. You can expect to pay around 100 PHP Philippine Pesos ($1.80 USD) for a tricycle.
Warning: scam!
If you’re coming to Moalboal directly from the airport or port, you may be approached by people wearing a transport company uniform, selling tickets directly to Moalboal from either the port or the airport. They will lie to you and tell you there is no other way to get there or try to convince you that the buses from South Bus Terminal are unreliable, unsafe and uncomfortable. The tickets they sell are actually for a small van transfer (not a bus) and are about 3-4 times the price of the bus ticket.
An alternative way to get to Moalboal from Oslob or Malapascua
If you are coming to Moalboal from Malapascua or Oslob, there is another option rather than having to backtrack to Cebu City. You could get a private transfer instead of getting a bus back to Cebu City, a taxi to South Bus Terminal, and another bus to Moalboal. This can work out to be a much faster, more comfortable, and more convenient option if you meet a few people who are also heading to Moalboal. From Malapascua, the journey takes around 6 hours, which is 3-4 hours shorter than the journey on bus routes via Cebu City.
Per vehicle, it costs 5,000 PHP Philippine Pesos ($90 USD) per vehicle, but split between 4 people; it works out to 1250 PHP Philippine Pesos ($22 USD) per person. My journey from Maya Port (the entry port to Malapascua) to Moalboal, which involves a tricycle, a bus, a taxi, another bus and a ferry, cost me 850 PHP Philippine Pesos ($16 USD).
From Oslob to Moalboal, it is around 2 hours and costs around 1,300 PHP Philippine Pesos ($23 USD) per vehicle, but split between 4 people, it works out to 325 PHP Philippine Pesos ($6 USD) per person. If you’re a solo traveller, I highly recommend asking around your hostel for people heading to Moalboal who might want to make the journey with you in a private transfer. You can also post on Hostelworld chats for both the destination you are coming from and Moalboal to see if anyone is keen on sharing a private taxi. To book the taxi, chat with your hostel or any tour agencies or shops in either Malapascua or Oslob.
How to get around Moalboal
Moalboal gives off small-town vibes but is also a favourite with travellers, so there are many options for getting around. Whether on foot, by motorbike or via a tricycle, you shouldn’t have too much trouble navigating Moalboal. For tours such as canyoneering or if you book a waterfall tour, you’re usually picked up and dropped off at your accommodation, so there’s no need to organise any transport for these days. An alternative to joining a tour to visit land sights would be renting a motorbike. Otherwise, everything else is easily accessible on foot or with a tricycle, no matter where you stay in Moalboal.
Getting around Moalboal on foot
In Moalboal, there aren’t sidewalks, so you walk on the side of the road, but there isn’t much traffic. It feels very safe to walk around even at night as a solo female, as the area is pretty touristic and gives off small-town vibes. Regardless of where you stay in Moalboal, you should be able to walk to most places. In Moalboal, all restaurants, cafes, and bars are walkable. You can also walk to Panagsama Beach in the centre of Moalboal to experience the Sardine Run or watch the sunset. Sights like White Beach are a bit further afield, but you could still walk (expect it to take around 1 hour). For all other sightseeing, you would need to rely on a tour, motorbike or tricycle.
Getting around Moalboal by motorbike
Moalboal is not one of the places in the Philippines where it’s necessary to drive a motorbike in order to get around, as there are many tour options and tricycles. However, renting one to visit land sights like waterfalls or to get to and from White Beach may be more cost-friendly. It is also a good way to get around if you want the sense of adventure and experience of driving a motorbike. Renting a motorbike means you have the freedom to explore at your own pace and don’t need to worry about paying for tricycles.
The roads are quiet and in good condition, so it’s a fairly easy place to drive a scooter. The busiest part of Moalboal is the main road where the bus drops you off, but it’s smooth sailing once you’ve navigated away from this area. A lot of backpackers will rent motorbikes for a day or two to visit all the nearby waterfalls and beaches, which are all accessible just off the main road, which loops around the area. For a one-day semi-automatic scooter rental, expect to pay around 300 PHP Philippine Pesos ($5 USD).
Getting around Moalboal by tricycle
There is no Grab or rideshare apps in Moalboal, but there are many tricycles (like Tuk Tuks) everywhere. The local tricycles are the way to get around for quick journeys, such as to White Beach or from the bus station. These motorised tricycles are easy to find with their colourful exteriors. Stand on any road and wave your hand, and a driver is sure to stop. You don’t need to do this at the bus station as there are always around ten tricycles waiting for passengers to disembark. There are no set prices, and you are encouraged to haggle for a fair price. You can expect to pay as little as 100 PHP Philippine Pesos ($1.80 USD) for a tricycle from the bus station to most hostels.
You can also get tricycles to destinations further afield, like White Beach. These are major tourist spots, so you’d have no trouble hailing a tricycle to get you back to Moalboal afterwards. Expect to pay less than 120 PHP Philippine Pesos ($2 USD) for a one-way journey to White Beach. This could be much less, depending on your haggling skills and how many people you are sharing a tricycle with.
Where to stay in Moalboal
Moalboal is a hotspot for backpackers seeking beaches, waterfalls and the famous Sardine Run, so there are lots of good hostels to choose from. 95% of the hostels are located in the central area of Moalboal called Panagsama Beach. Realistically, it doesn’t matter too much where you stay, as they’re all walking distance from each other, as long as you are staying somewhere along Panagsama Road in the Panagsama Beach area.
Moho Hostel– best social hostel
Moho is genuinely one of the best hostels I’ve stayed in! They have mastered the combination of providing a comfortable place to stay with a wholesome social vibe. Beds are pod-style with curtains and comfortable bedding. Bathrooms are clean with hot water and have a massive chill area with mats to lay on and hammocks. Additionally, they have a separate bar area on site where they host nightly activities like free drinks from 8 pm – 9 pm and trivia night. This is perfect for solo travellers wanting to make friends! The one downside is the location is further along Panagsama Road than the other hostels, which are closer to the beach, but honestly, it’s such a short walk that it doesn’t make too much of a difference.
Chief Mau Hostel– best flashpacker hostel
Chief Mau is another solid hostel option, particularly if you want something more luxurious. The amenities at Chief Mau feel much more like a hotel than a hostel, and it’s located a stone’s throw away from Panagsama Beach, which is super convenient. The beds are pod-style with curtains and stairs instead of ladders to the top bunk and good A/C. They have large common areas with lots of bean bags, hammocks and comfy seating. The only downside is that they don’t tend to run evening events like the other hostels do, so it can be trickier to make friends as a solo traveller.
Hangover Hostel– best party hostel
The beds are comfortable with curtains and A/C, and the bathrooms are generally pretty clean. They have outdoor common areas (with the cutest dogs!) and lots of space to chill. They do free rum and coke every night and play drinking games (which sometimes turn into late-night karaoke). If you’re looking for a party hostel in Moalboal, the Hangover Hostel is the closest to that. The one downside is that it is further away from Panagsama Beach (near Moho Hostel), but it’s still easily walkable, so it’s not much of an issue.
What to do in Moalboal
Moalboal, nestled on the island of Cebu in the Philippines, has quickly become a hotspot for backpackers due to the range of different activities available here. From diving into the depths of the sardine run to canyoneering Kawasan Falls, unwinding on the white sands of White Beach, and swimming in waterfalls, there’s something in Moalboal for every type of traveller.
Canyoneering
The most popular activity in Moalboal is the canyoneering tour through the stunning Kawasan Falls. This activity is not for the faint-hearted; it involves jumping into river pools, sliding down natural water slides, and swimming through narrow canyons. If you can’t swim or are afraid of heights, maybe give this one a miss. One of the most underrated parts of canyoneering is the guides: they double as comedians and photographers, which really makes the experience! The cost of this adventure typically includes gear rental, guide fees, secure storage for your dry clothes, entrance charges, transport to and from Moalboal and lunch. The price can vary but expect to spend around 1,500 to 2,500 PHP Philippine Pesos ($26-$44 USD), depending on where you book.
Multiple companies run these tours at different start times throughout the day; the earlier the start time, the less crowded the Falls will be. Tours generally last around 5-6 hours, including transportation time to and from Moalboal. The tour involves a small hike to get to the falls, hikes between waterfalls and some swimming, so you don’t need to have a standard fitness level to complete the tour safely. All you need to bring is a swimsuit and some clothes and shoes to wear in the transport to and from Moalboal (you leave these in a storage locker before starting the tour). Companies provide water shoes, life jackets and helmets. You may also want to bring a GoPro or your phone in a waterproof case, which you can give to the guides to take photos and videos.
Sardine Run
The Sardine Run is another quintessential Moalboal experience that attracts backpackers to the area. This is an underwater phenomenon where millions of sardines swim in a massive hoard in the ocean. It is incredible to witness snorkelling from above, but it is even better if you can scuba dive, as you can swim through the Sardine Run in Moalboal. This is one of the best dives I have ever done, as you’re literally surrounded by a wall of sardines swimming around you!
If you don’t fancy scuba diving, the easiest way to experience the Sardine Run is to head to Panagsama Beach (the main beach in Moalboal). Here, there are plenty of shops and restaurants offering snorkel rentals. Then, you literally swim out from the main beach in Moalboal (you’ll know where the Sardine Run is as there will be people snorkelling about it at all times). Most people spend around 1-2 hours snorkelling the Sardine Run.
If you do scuba dive, I highly recommend paying the extra money to actually dive amongst the sardines! There are multiple dive shops around Moalboal where you can book this. Personally, I would recommend Amigos Dive Centre. Scuba Diving tours in Moalboal include a dive master, all equipment and one fun dive to experience the sardine run. Expect to pay around 1200 PHP Philippine Pesos ($21 USD) for this dive. You can also rent a GoPro from any dive shop in Moalboal to photograph the sardine run, which is a must! If you’re scuba diving amongst the sardines, setting up your equipment should take around 2 hours, including the time at the dive shop. Due to how shallow the area where the sardines are is, you can do the Moalboal Sardine Run Dive with just an open-water certification.
White Beach
White Beach is, without a doubt, the best beach in Moalboal! It’s the perfect place to head if you want to have a beach day, relax, swim or watch the sunset. It costs 25 PHP Philippine Pesos (0.50 cents USD) to enter, but it is worth it. Expect a pristine stretch of sand with crystal-clear waters and a tranquil ambience. I would recommend coming in the afternoon and staying for sunset if it’s a clear night! There are a few restaurants selling food and shops selling snacks and drinks if you want to stay the whole day there. Otherwise, it’s a pretty untouched beach with no beach clubs or loungers to rent.
White Beach is around a 60-90 hour walk from the main street of Moalboal. You can easily get a tricycle for around 120 PHP Philippine Pesos ($2 USD) one-way. There’s always plenty of tricycle drivers waiting at White Beach to take people back to Moalboal. Alternatively, if you rent a scooter, you could easily get here on a motorbike. Just be wary; the location on Google Maps is incorrect. Two White Beach locations have come up; the one that is further away from Moalboal. Alternatively, you can type in HK Beach Resort using Google Maps to ensure you head to the right spot. If you’re getting a tricycle, the drivers will automatically take you to the correct White Beach, so no need to worry.
Chase Waterfalls
Moalboal is also a gateway to a day of chasing waterfalls, with several breathtaking options nearby. There are many waterfalls to choose from, but make sure you pick your waterfalls carefully, as some are more for swimming, and others are for canyoning. Falls like Aquinid Falls and Kawasan Falls are more for canyoning, so it is compulsory for you to pay for a guide and safety gear to visit these falls. If you prefer somewhere just for swimming, try Cambais Falls or Montpellier Falls, which, as of 2024, you do not have to pay for a guide or safety gear to visit. However, this may change; as a local waterfall guide explained, if there are any accidents/ fatalities at a waterfall, they start enforcing tourists going with guides. These waterfalls have small entrance fees, but they do not cost more than $2 USD per waterfall.
To visit the waterfalls around Moalboal, you will either need to go on a tour, hire a motorbike and drive yourself or hire a private taxi for the day, as they are not walkable from Moalboal. Driving yourself is the most affordable option and allows the most freedom, followed by hiring a private taxi (provided you have a group of 4 people to share costs) and a tour.
Watch the sunset at Panagsama Beach
As the day wanes, make your way to Panagsama Beach to watch the sunset after a day of enjoying the island. There are plenty of sandy spots on the beach where you can sit and watch the sunset, or you can head to one of the restaurants or bars along the beach to have a drink while watching the sunset. I highly recommend grabbing a sunset drink at Veranda Kitchen and Bar, as they have a nice atmosphere and good drink specials!
Where to eat in Moalboal
Moalboal is a popular tourist destination in the Philippines, so many great food options exist! Whether you’re looking for a cute cafe for brunch, a vibey restaurant serving Filipino cuisines, or high-quality international foods, there’s something for every taste. In Moalboal, you would mostly eat out for breakfast and dinner, as any tours include lunch. If you’re out exploring, you’d grab food on the go for lunch.
Hungry Monkeys
Dubbed by many as the best dinner spot in Moalboal, Hungry Monkeys serves up a feast of Filipino favourites that are both delicious and affordable. Hungry Monkeys is a must-visit in the heart of Moalboal, right near Panagsama Beach. The restaurant is located on a rooftop, up a rather conspicuous flight of stairs from the main road. The food is great, they serve good cocktails if you want a night out, and they have a cute atmosphere. One thing to note is due to the popularity of Hungry Monkeys, there sometimes can be long waits for food, but it is well worth the wait!
Trattoria Alcove
If you’re craving quality Italian food (including real cheese and wine), head to Trattoria Alcove. This restaurant might be pricier, but the quality of the food is unparalleled! You can eat or grab a takeaway dinner on the beach or at the hostel bar.
Shaka
For breakfast/ brunch, I highly recommend heading to Shaka to enjoy their selection of smoothie bowls. Known for its health-conscious menu and smoothie bowls, which are basically a work of art, Shaka is a popular breakfast spot in the heart of Moalboal. One thing to note is that there isn’t much seating, and it can get really busy due to how popular it is. But that’s no worry, as it’s right next to the beach, so why not enjoy a smoothie bowl on Panagsama Beach?
Bewod
Another beloved breakfast and brunch destination in Moalboal is Bewod. With its cozy ambience and a large menu that features a mix of local and international breakfast items, Bewod has a breakfast option for every taste. Whether you’re in the mood for a hearty Filipino breakfast to kickstart your day or a classic Western brunch to enjoy at a leisurely pace, Bewod is the spot to come! They don’t have much seating, but it’s generally less busy than Shaka. The cafe is super cozy, making it the perfect place to come if you want to journal, chill out or even plan travel.
Moalboal Nightlife
Moalboal isn’t known for its nightlife, as many travellers will wake up early for canyoneering tours, explore the nearby waterfalls, or scuba dive in the sardine run. That being said, there is still a fun, laidback beachy nightlife scene to enjoy.
For many travellers, the night begins and often remains at their hostel, as most of the hostels in Moalboal have bars on site. Among these, Moho stands out as they have a nightly free drink hour from 8-9 pm, which draws in travellers from other accommodations. Following this, they host evening events like trivia, which is perfect for meeting other travellers.
After Moho closes around 11 pm, everyone will head to Black Summer, the only place open late. This bar has a full bar, dancefloor, and karaoke stage! While it’s not the craziest night out, travellers tend to stay at Black Summer fairly late into the night, and the group karaoke is pretty fun.
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