Hue is an important city in Vietnam for its history, significance to the Vietnam War and food culture. However, among backpackers, there are mixed opinions on whether it is skippable or somewhere worth spending a few days. Honestly, I sit on the fence when it comes to Hue, as there are many things I love and other things that turned me off the city. This guide will be an honest review of Hue, including the best things to do, where to eat, nightlife recommendations and hostel reviews. I’ll also cover how to get there, how to get around and how many days I think you should spend there.
How many days to spend in Hue
How many days you spend in Hue depends on your interest level in history. Hue has a lot to offer in terms of Vietnam War History, but also pre-colonial history as it was the capital during the Nguyen Dynasty. It also depends on how you plan on getting to and from Hue. If you plan on doing the Hai Van Pass to/from Hoi An or Da Nang, that will take a whole day out of your travel itinerary.
At a minimum, two full days in Hue would give you a good feel for the city and allow you to tick off some of the major sights. This would be pretty fast-paced, though, and you wouldn’t be able to do everything. You would probably spend one day at the imperial citadel, the abandoned waterpark, and another day driving the Hai Van Pass. If you want to take a tour of the DMZ and see more sights related to the Vietnam War (which are located outside of the town of Hue) and you want to see some impressive temples and historical sights, allow 3 to 4 days, including the Hai Van Pass Day. 3 to 4 days would allow you to enjoy the sights, foods and culture of Hue at a more relaxed pace to avoid travel burnout.
How to get to Hue
Hue is accessible by both sleeper bus and train from many destinations throughout Vietnam. The most popular cities to come from include Hoi An, Da Nang, Phong Nha, Ninh Binh and Hanoi. You can get to Hue from destinations further afield as well, but it would be a much longer journey and skipping many key places. Sleeper buses are generally the most popular form of transport in Vietnam due to their price and comfort level. Trains are more expensive but offer a smoother journey and feature fully flat beds (if you opt for the sleeper seat option). You can book all trains and buses to Hue through hostels or online at 12GOAsia.
In Hue, the train station is around a 10-minute drive to the main area where most hostels and accommodations are, so you’ll need to book a Grab or Taxi from the station. If you’re getting a sleeper bus, the buses pull into specific travel agencies in Hue rather than one centralised bus terminal. The drop-off location in Hue depends on which bus company you book with. The Tbus booking agency is one of the most central and is within walking distance to Vietnam Backpackers and Shark Homestay Hostel.
How to get to Hue from Hoi An/ Da Nang
If you are coming from Hoi An or Da Nang, have you considered travelling the Hai Van Pass instead of taking a bus? If you don’t know, the Hai Van Pass is a scenic mountain road connecting the two cities, which is best experienced on a motorbike. You can make many stops at attractions on the way, and your luggage gets sent ahead to your hostel in Hue. I highly recommend taking the Hai Van Pass as a day trip to get to Hue from either Hoi An or Da Nang; you can read more about it here.
If you don’t fancy taking the Hai Van Pass, the journey from Hoi An or Da Nang to Hue is only 3 hours in duration via bus. Buses run every 30 minutes from 5 am to 10:30 pm daily. Some of the buses are standard sleeper buses, whereas others are minivan transfers. As the journey is only 3 hours, it doesn’t matter too much, but in my opinion sleeper buses are way more comfortable. In both Hoi An and Da Nang, the buses depart from various travel agencies around the town, so make sure you check the location of the company you book with. For a bus from Hoi An or Da Nang to Hue, expect to pay between 223-286k VND Vietnamese Dong ($9-$11) for a sleeper bus and 350k VND Vietnamese Dong ($14) for a minivan transfer.
How to get to Hue from Phong Nha
Phong Nha to Hue is a super popular route that many backpackers take when travelling south to north Vietnam. The most popular way to get between these destinations is a sleeper bus, which takes only 5 hours. You can also get a sleeper train from Phong Nha if you’re really opposed to getting a sleeper bus, but the nearest train station is Dong Hoi, which is a 45-minute drive from Phong Nha City Centre. Buses depart from two main spots in Phong Nha: outside Central Backpackers Hostel and just opposite the boat station in the centre of town. When departing Phong Nha, I strongly recommend booking buses directly through Central Backpackers Hostel, as that means you can chill in the bar, and the staff will come and get you when the bus arrives.
There are day buses and “night” buses, but given the journey is only 5 hours, night buses get you into Hue in the middle of the night, which isn’t ideal. Day buses depart Phong Nha at 3:30 am, 4 am, 9 am, 11:30 am, and 3 pm. Night buses depart at around 11 pm but have you arriving in Hue at 4 am. Expect to pay between 350-450k VND Vietnamese Dong ($14-18 USD) for this ticket, with the price depending on the bus company and the time of day you depart.
How to get to Hue from Ninh Binh
Ninh Binh to Hue is a fairly popular travel route (although it means skipping Phong Nha). There are sleeper trains running on this route, but they are fairly expensive compared to sleeper buses. Even the VIP sleeper buses work out much cheaper than the second-class sleeper seats on the train (and the buses are much more comfortable, in my opinion!). The bus journey takes around 11 hours but can sometimes be longer due to traffic. You can get day buses, but these aren’t very popular as you spend a whole day just sitting on the bus. The day buses depart between 7 am and 8 am and arrive in Hue at around dinner time.
Alternatively, the night sleeper buses depart Ninh Binh at regular 15-minute intervals from 6 pm to 9 pm, with multiple companies servicing this route. The most popular times are the later times, as the 6 pm bus arrives at around 5-6 am the next morning, and most people won’t be able to check in to their accommodation in Hue until the afternoon. In Ninh Binh, there are multiple pickup locations for the buses, but the most popular are T-Bus and Long Restaurant, as they are opposite Banana Tree Hostel.
For a standard sleeper bus (no curtains and only reclines 90% of the way), you can expect to pay around 530k VND Vietnamese Dong ($22 USD). For VIP sleeper buses (fully reclined seats, which are as comfy as beds and have privacy curtains) expect to pay between 620k to 1 million VND Vietnamese Dong ($25-$44 USD) depending on time of bus and the company you go with.
How to get to Hue from Hanoi
Coming directly to Hue from Hanoi is not the most popular route, as it means skipping Phong Nha and Ninh Binh, but if you’re short on time, it is an option. The journey takes 14 hours on a sleeper bus, with the option for a standard sleeper (reclined 90% of the way and no curtains) or a VIP sleeper (curtains and a flat lay-down bed). This journey is most popular by night bus to avoid losing a whole travel day. In Hanoi, buses depart from different bus agencies around the city; the two closest pickup locations to Old Quarter are T-Bus and Hanoi SSB. Make sure you check the pickup location before you book a bus, as some offices can be quite far away and take a while to get to in the crazy Hanoi traffic!
Night buses depart Hanoi from various locations between 4 pm and 7 pm, roughly every 15 minutes. The later buses tend to be more popular as they arrive in Hue at around breakfast time. If you prefer to avoid a night bus, there are a couple of day buses available departing Hanoi between 5:30 am and 6:30 am. Taking these buses means you’d lose a whole day and arrive in Hue for dinner. Expect to pay between 330k and 550k VND Vietnamese Dong ($14-$22 USD) for a standard sleeper bus and around 700k VND Vietnamese Dong ($29 USD) for a VIP bus.
How to get around Hue
Hue is a pretty large city in Vietnam, with many attractions both in the city centre and in the areas surrounding the city. There are lots of transport options for getting around, such as Grab Scooter, Grab Car, Taxis, Trishaws, getting around on foot or renting a motorbike. Depending on where you’re heading to and what your travel plans are in Hue, not all transport options may be right for you.
Getting around Hue on foot
If you stay in the centre of Hue, you’ll be able to access a lot of places on foot. You can easily walk to restaurants, cafes, bars, the Imperial Citadel, Dong Ba Market and the spot where the Dragon Boats leave from. Strolling through the narrow lanes allows you to explore the city properly, but be prepared for the sweltering heat, especially during the scorching midday hours. In the middle of the day, getting a Grab scooter is often a better option than walking, even for short distances. There’s a lot of cement and not a whole lot of greenery around the city centre of Hue, which can make it feel even hotter. Also, comfortable shoes are a must; although the city isn’t enormous, the distances can add up quickly.
Getting around Hue via Grab
Hue has both Grab Scooters and Grab Cars, and drivers are readily available across the city. Grab Scooters are generally quicker than cars as they can filter through the traffic. You can also see and experience more of the city on the back of a bike. However, when there are downpours, you are more exposed to the elements. You can utilise Grab scooters and cars both around the city and to see sights in the surrounding regions. I even tipped my Grab Scooter guide, and he drove me through the Abandoned Waterpark (which was an experience!).
If you plan on visiting a lot of sights outside the city in one day, book a grab scooter and ask the driver if he’ll take you to a number of sights for a fixed price (you may need to use translate). I did this to visit the Abandoned Waterpark, Khai Dinh Tomb and Imperial Citadel, as it meant the driver waited for me outside each of the sights. While it is easy to get a Grab in the city, it can be trickier getting a Grab from remote sites outside the city, as there needs to be drivers nearby.
Getting around Hue by renting a motorbike
For visiting sights outside of the city centre, like the Abandoned Waterpark, Khai Dinh Tomb and Pagoda of the Celestial Lady, lots of backpackers rent motorbikes and drive themselves. This can work out cheaper than getting Grabs there or even having a driver for the day. You also get the added benefit of the adventure of riding a motorbike and feeling the wind in your hair. While I wouldn’t recommend using this to access sights in the city as there’s so much traffic and limited parking, it is very accessible for sights outside the city.
The roads are in pretty good shape, with not too many hills or twists and turns, but you do need to be a somewhat confident driver to navigate the busy roads entering and exiting the centre of Hue. You can expect to pay around 150k VND Vietnamese Dong ($6 USD) for a motorbike for the day. Most hostels have recommended agencies that rent out motorbikes, or you can find many reputable rental agencies that are well-reviewed by a quick Google search.
Where to stay in Hue
Despite Hue being a fairly large city and a well-known stop on the typical backpacker route in Vietnam, there aren’t very many well-rated hostels. Honestly, it is a bit of a letdown and probably one of the reasons Hue gets such a bad rep. Hue, as a city, has a lot to offer in terms of food, sights and nightlife, so I do hope a good social hostel opens up soon so Hue becomes more popular for solo travellers. That being said, there are still some decent hostels, depending on what kind of vibe you are after.
In terms of location, you want a hostel around Hue Walking Street, as this is where all the best cafes, bars and restaurants are. This is also a great area to stay in to be within walking distance of sights in the city like the Dong Ba Market, Dragon Boats and even the Imperial Citadel. You can book all accommodation online here.
Shark Hostel
SharkHostel in Hue stands out if you want somewhere to stay that’s central and clean and will guarantee a good night’s sleep. The dorm features bunk beds but with curtains, big security lockers and reliable hot water in the clean bathrooms. The hostel staff are what make it great, offering recommendations and tips and helping to book anything you need. They also offer free breakfast, which is a money-win for the price of the hostel. Another positive is the location of the hostel, right in the centre of Hue, while not being on the bar street, so you can walk everywhere but still have a good night’s sleep at your hostel.
The one downside to Shark Hostel is it is not very social as they don’t really have common areas. While a lot of people stay there, so you may make friends in the dorm room, the lack of common areas can make it tricky for solo travellers.
Vietnam Backpackers
Vietnam Backpackers Hostel in Hue is a full-blown party hostel of a bygone era, where travellers didn’t care about cleanliness or amenities as long as there was alcohol. It is fairly basic in terms of amenities, so it really wouldn’t suit a flashpacker-style backpacker. The dorms feature bunk beds without curtains, security lockers and a small ensuite bathroom with questionable hot water and water pressure. It’s basic but comfortable enough for a night or two.
Where Vietnam Backpackers shines is the social vibe and their downstairs bar right on the bar street of Hue. While no hostels in Hue have a particularly social vibe, Vietnam Backpackers is probably the most social of the lot. They offer a free beer downstairs between certain hours, which gets everyone down and socialising. Vietnam Backpackers also run tours, have a restaurant on-site and occasionally have events like beer pong tournaments. The location is right in the centre; however, it is on the nightlife street, so expect it to be loud. The rooms don’t have soundproofing, so you need earplugs or even better noise-cancelling headphones.
What to do in Hue
There are a lot of things to do in Hue, both inside the city and in the surrounding regions. If you want to learn more about the Vietnam War, there are many day tours to well-known battle sites and the DMZ (demilitarized zone separating North and South Vietnam). Otherwise, you can visit sights in the city such as the Hue Citadel and Imperial City, the Dong Ba Market and ride a Dragon Boat along the Perfume River. There are also great sights slightly outside of the city, such as the Tik Tok famous Abandoned Waterpark, Khai Dinh Tomb and the Pagoda of the Celestial Lady. Another great experience is riding the Hai Van Pass from Hue to Hoi An/ Da Nang.
Hue Citadel and Imperial City
Hue Citadel and Imperial City is a UNESCO World Heritage site where you’ll find a sprawling complex filled with ancient temples, palaces, and gates. The sheer scale of the Imperial City is both impressive and overwhelming, so be prepared for a fair bit of walking. The well-preserved structures reveal the tales of past emperors, providing a glimpse into Vietnam’s imperial history and the importance of the Nguyen Dynasty.
The site’s popularity means there can be crowds, particularly big organised tour groups which come through. The best time to come is early morning, both for the heat and to try and avoid crowds. Allow at least 3-4 hours to explore the whole complex. Hue Citadel is a sacred site, so you will need to wear a temple dress, meaning shoulders, knees and torso are fully covered. This can make it incredibly hot and sweaty walking around, but there are places to rest in the shade.
It costs 200k VND Vietnamese Dong ($8 USD) to enter and an additional 100k VND Vietnamese Dong ($4 USD) for an audio guide. If you prefer, you can join a guided tour at the entrance, which is generally price-negotiable. I strongly recommend either going with a tour guide or getting the audioguide, as there are not many signs explaining the history or what you’re looking at, if you don’t have some sort of guide.
Abandoned Water Park
While the abandoned water park is not an official tourist attraction, it has gained popularity among backpackers due to its TikTok fame. The absence of guided tours means you’re on your own to try to decipher the park’s history and purpose while walking or riding a motorbike around without a map. The abandoned water park stands frozen in time, surrounded by overgrown vegetation and graffiti and with a very eerie vibe. There are usually not many people there other than the odd adventurous backpacker. Just be wary of where you’re walking, particularly when climbing structures that haven’t been maintained in a long time.
The Abandoned Waterpark is marked on Google Maps (if you get lost, you can ask locals in the area; they all know about it). Most people come here by motorbike and drive themselves through the park. Otherwise, you can come here via Grab Car or Scooter (my Grab Scooter driver actually drove me through a section of the park!). There’s no official entrance fee, although sometimes there is a guard you have to pay off (you shouldn’t pay more than a few dollars though). There’s also a scooter parking area, where two entrepreneurial local women charge a small fee to watch your scooter and also sell water and drinks. All up, I would allow 1-2 hours to explore the Abandoned Waterpark.
Khai Dinh Tomb
Khai Dinh’s Tomb is a great stop to make on your way from the abandoned waterpark, as it’s on the way back to Hue’s city centre. The tomb, while having a lot of historical significance, is also very aesthetically cool, so it is a necessary stop for those interested in architecture or photography. The site consists of narrow but ornate staircases leading up to the indoor area where the actual Tomb is, which also has panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes. It costs 150k VND Vietnamese Dong ($6 USD) to enter and an additional 70k VND Vietnamese Dong ($2.50 USD) for an audio guide. They don’t enforce temple dress here, but it is always better to dress respectfully at historical sites. The site is fairly small, so you only need around 1 hour here for the audio guide and to explore the site.
The Pagoda of the Celestial Lady (Thien Mu Pagoda)
Located right on the Perfume River, the pagoda, also known as Thien Mu Pagoda, stands as an iconic symbol of the city’s religious heritage. Once you enter, you’ll climb a small but narrow staircase towards a 7-tiered pagoda, which is the main attraction of the site. There are also a number of smaller statues, ancient gates and bonsai trees in the areas surrounding the actual pagoda. Entrance to the site is free, but you do need to wear temple dress, meaning having your shoulders, knees and torso covered.
The Pagoda is located around a 20-minute drive from Hue Citadel, on the same side of the river, so you can easily get there via Grab or drive yourself. However, if you want to enhance the experience, consider getting a dragon boat here. Dragon boats can be boarded from Bến thuyền Tòa Khâm Marina in the centre of Hue City. You could also combine this with a visit to the nearby Temple of Literature, another historical site. I would allow around 30 minutes to an hour at the Pagoda of the Celestial Lady (not including the dragon boat ride).
Dong Ba Market
This bustling market, situated along the Perfume River, is a sensory overload, with stalls overflowing with fresh produce, aromatic spices, scooters and people everywhere. It is more of a clothing and produce market, but you can also find lots of souvenirs and some local street foods. The market can get super crowded and hot, so be prepared. It’s a great place to visit to experience local life, as it’s not very touristy compared to all the other sights in Hue. One of the better parts of the market is upstairs, where there’s less food and more clothing and souvenirs. One thing to note is the market laneways are very crowded, so be mindful of your belongings, as it would be an easy spot to get pickpocketed.
Dong Ba Market is located on the same side of the river as the Hue Citadel, Thien Mu Pagoda and the Temple of Literature, so I’d recommend combining these sights. You can easily get here via Grab or drive yourself. Alternatively, you can also hire a Dragon Boat to take you here from Bến thuyền Tòa Khâm Marina in the centre of Hue. I would allow around 1-2 hours here, depending on whether you’re doing a lot of souvenir shopping.
Dragon Boat ride
A Dragon Boat Ride down the Perfume River is a great way to see the city of Hue from a different angle. Dragon Boats, and quite literally boats that look like dragons are only found in Hue. You can use them to get to sights such as Dong Ba Market, Thien Mu Pagoda and the Imperial City. Boats depart for these sights from the Bến thuyền Tòa Khâm Marina in the centre of Hue (if you look up “dragon boat” on Google Maps, it will come up). At night, they do novelty dragon boat rides where you get to see the lights of the city while enjoying a local music performance on board. These boats leave the marina at 7 pm and 8 pm at night, with the novelty ride taking around 45 minutes.
You don’t have to book a dragon boat ride in advance, just show up the marina. It is better if you go with a group, as prices are negotiable and you’ll get a better rate the more people you have with you. Alternatively, you could wait at the marina for other travellers to show up and try to team up with them. You could pay anywhere between 50-200k VND Vietnamese Dong ($2-8 USD) depending on how many people you have and how far you are going. The dragon boats are a fun experience and a novel way to get around, but it can feel quite commercialised and is often more expensive than just getting a Grab Scooter to a destination.
Where to eat in Hue
Hue is the hidden foodie gem in Vietnam, and this is the hill I will die on. They have so many unique dishes that originated in the region, such as Bun Bo Hue (a noodle dish), Ban Xeo (Vietnamese pancakes) and Nem Lui (pork skewers). The food in Hue does tend to be spicier than other Vietnamese food, so make sure you ask for your dishes to be served mild if you can’t handle chilli.
Madame Thu
Madame Thu is by far the most popular restaurant in Hue for travellers, and for good reason! The restaurant, a local gem, is a go-to for authentic Vietnamese cuisine and features the special dishes of the Hue region. The menu boasts a variety of dishes, from Bun Bo Hue to Crispy Banh Xeo. They also have a special tasting platter you can order, which features small portions of the nine most famous dishes in Hue. The platter costs 190k VND Vietnamese Dong ($7.5 USD) and is a massive portion but is well worth it. Madame Thu is so popular that it has two locations in Hue, and both are equally as good. Due to its popularity, you may sometimes have to wait for a table to become available, but it is well worth it.
Nook eatery
Nook is the place to go for all-day brunch! This spot merges Vietnamese classics with international influences, offering a diverse menu for every palate. The restaurant is located down a small alleyway, just off a main road in the centre of Hue. They have both indoor and garden seating available and are generally not too busy. The prices are a bit more expensive than other local restaurants in Hue, but the food is really good, and it’s a cute aesthetic spot to read, journal or just escape the heat of the city.
Clover Coffee
For a cute cafe to work in or journal, head to Clover Coffee. Tucked away in an unassuming alley, this café is the perfect place to try the famous Hue Salted Coffee. Prices are reasonable, and the cozy setting is ideal for relaxing after exploring the sweaty streets of Hue. They have strong aircon and lots of power points around, so the cafe is also great for digital nomads or just doing a bit of travel planning.
Hue nightlife
Hue may not be synonymous with bustling nightlife, but there are still options for going out, albeit much quieter nightlife than in places like Hoi An, Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The city’s nightlife is relatively modest, with a scattering of local bars and establishments that cater to tourists. Most of the bars are located in the centre of Hue, along Pham Ngu Lao Street and surrounding streets. Two popular spots with backpackers are the sports bar at the ground level of Vietnam Backpackers Hostel and DMZ Bar.
Vietnam Backpackers Hostel Bar is better for pre-drinks or if you want to watch international sports. DMZ bar generally has a bit more atmosphere with live music, pool tables, and just a cool vibe. However, most places start winding down around midnight, with the exception of a few clubs nearby. However, these clubs are usually more popular with locals and expats than tourists.
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