Phnom Penh is a big and bustling Asian capital city that often gets a bad rep. While it certainly doesn’t have the same atmosphere as Siem Reap, it is an interesting place to visit to learn more about the rich but also tragic history of Cambodia. On the lighter side, Phnom Penh has temples, markets, museums, great food options and fun nightlife. Perhaps the most important reason to visit is for the history of the Khmer Rouge Regime and subsequent genocide through visiting sites like the S21 Prison and the Killing Fields. This guide will cover everything you need to know about Phnom Penh including how to get there, how to get around, where to stay, what to do and restaurant and nightlife recommendations.
How many days to spend in Phnom Penh
A lot of travellers will advise you to skip Phnom Penh (or even skip Cambodia altogether), but this in my opinion would be a huge mistake. Phnom Penh is not the most aesthetic city by any means, but it is an important stop to make to learn about Cambodia’s rich history and the tragedy of the Khmer Rouge regime and subsequent genocide.
You could tick off just the highlights of Phnom Penh in one full day, but it would be a jam-packed travel day. Ideally, if you like to travel at a more relaxed pace 1.5-2 days would be the perfect amount of time to spend in Phnom Penh. This would allow plenty of time to visit museums, the killing fields, temples, shop at the clothing markets, eat great food and enjoy the nightlife Phnom Penh has to offer.
How to get to Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh, being the capital of Cambodia, has an international airport, which you can fly in and out of. However, it is a smaller airport (compared to the likes of other South East Asian Airports) so there are fewer flight options and prices tend to be a bit higher. If you are travelling around South East Asia, it often works out cheaper to via bus to Phnom Penh. There are direct buses to Phnom Penh from Vietnam, Thailand, Laos and most other destinations within Cambodia. All buses can be booked online through 12GOAsia or usually through your hostel.
How to get to Phnom Penh from Vietnam
The only place in Vietnam you can get a direct bus to Phnom Penh from is Ho Chi Minh City. The journey from Ho Chi Minh City to Phnom Penh takes between 6-8 hours, depending on the time spent being processed through immigration. Buses depart every 30 minutes from 4:30 am- 3:30 pm from various offices and bus stops around Ho Chi Minh City, so make sure you check the departure location before you book. The buses range in price from $26-$35 USD, depending on departure time and which bus company you go with. If you catch one of the more budget buses, expect the amenities to be a bit more basic (e.g. seats that don’t recline much, poor A/C and greater language barriers with the driver).
The most expensive option is Giant Ibis, as they include both a driver and a “guide” who helps you with the border crossing. This is a major benefit of going through Giant Ibis, as they explain the process and help as much as they can to get everyone through both immigration departments as fast as possible. They also have super comfortable bus seats that recline pretty far back and they give you water and a bunch of snacks. The Giant Ibis office in Ho Chi Minh City is right in the centre of town and within walking distance from many hostels in District 1. In Phnom Penh, the office is around a 10-minute Tuk Tuk ride from most of the hostels.
How to get to Phnom Penh from Thailand
If you’re trying to get to Phnom Penh from Thailand, there are direct buses from Bangkok. However, the majority of travellers will get the bus from Bangkok to Siem Reap first to spend a few days seeing Angkor Wat. It makes a lot more sense for your travel route to visit Siem Reap first and then get a transfer from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh. Siem Reap and Angkor Wat is the best thing you can do in Cambodia and a destination I wouldn’t be skipping.
If you do plan on skipping Siem Reap, there are bus and van options from Bangkok directly to Phnom Penh but it is quite a long journey. There is one bus that runs daily departing a travel agent near Khao San Road in Bangkok at 8 am and arriving into Phnom Penh at 5 am the next day. The seats recline to about a 45-degree angle and they have AC and a bathroom on the bus, so it will be a somewhat comfortable sleep for a 21-hour journey. You can expect to pay $54 USD for this journey.
The alternative to the bus is a van transfer which is cheaper and quicker but much less comfortable! Vans depart Bangkok at 2 am, 5 am, 6 am, 7 am and 9 am daily. The journey can take between 12-14 hours depending on the time taken to cross the border. Expect to pay $33 USD for the van transfer. Be warned, the van transfers are pretty uncomfortable. They squeeze as many people as possible into the van, with some people sitting on small pull-out seats. They are also pretty badly air-conditioned, so expect it to be a sweaty journey and wear the coolest clothing you have.
Getting to Phnom Penh from Laos
Getting to Phnom Penh from Vientiane is not a super popular travel route, so there are no direct travel options. The quickest way to get to Phnom Penh from Vientiane would be to fly with Air Asia via Bangkok. This would be a 14-hour journey, including the stopover, and would cost around $91 USD. Keep in mind this is a budget carrier, so it will not include any checked bags.
The other option for getting to Phnom Penh from Vientiane is by a van and then a sleeper bus transfer. The bus departs at 8 pm from Vientiane. You’ll travel by night in a sleeper bus to Pakse in Laos, where you’ll then connect with a van transfer at around 8 am to cross the border and travel to Vientiane. You’ll arrive in Phnom Penh AVT Agency (Asia Van Transfer) at 9:30 pm after a 24-hour journey. Be warned, the sleeper bus you will catch will have twin shared beds, meaning as a solo traveller, you will have to share a bed with a stranger. You can read my full experience of catching a sleeper bus in Laos like this here. Also, the van transfers can be a bit less comfortable as they are pretty cramped with not the best AC. Expect to pay around $100 USD for this ticket.
If you are already in Pakse, after visiting 1000 islands, you can book a ticket from Pakse directly to Phnom Penh, which cuts out the sleeper bus. The van transfer departs Pakse at around 8-9 am and takes 12-13 hours to get to Phnom Penh, on the same van as those travelling from Vientiane. Expect to pay $50 USD for a van transfer ticket from Pakse to Phnom Penh.
How to get to Phnom Penh from Siem Reap
Siem Reap to Phnom Penh is a super popular travel route. Van transfers depart daily from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh from 6 am to 10 pm at 30-minute to 1-hour intervals. The journey takes around 6 hours depending on traffic or any other delays. This does include one short rest stop to use the bathroom, buy any snacks and water and stretch your legs. Expect to pay between $8- $16 for a ticket, with certain times and bus companies being a little cheaper or more expensive. Pre-warning, the van transfers are not the most comfortable: often in cramped conditions with poor A/C on quite bumpy roads. Read my full transport guide with tips on what to expect on van transfers in Cambodia here.
How to get to Phnom Penh from Kampot
Van transfers depart daily from Kampot to Phnom Penh from 6:30 am to 6:30 pm at 30-minute to 1-hour intervals. The journey takes between 2-4 hours depending on traffic or any other delays. Expect to pay around $9 USD for a ticket, but certain times and bus companies may be a little cheaper or more expensive. Pre-warning, the van transfers are not the most comfortable: often in cramped conditions with poor A/C on quite bumpy roads. Read my full transport guide with tips on what to expect on van transfers in Cambodia here.
How to get to Phnom Penh from Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem
If you’re coming from Koh Rong or Koh Rong Samloem Islands, you’ll need to a boat from the islands to Sihanoukville Port, then get a Tuk Tuk to Sihanoukville City Centre and then get a van transfer to Phnom Penh. Reminder: don’t book your van transfer to Phnom Penh in advance in case the ferry is severely delayed.
Ferries and speedboats depart both Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem from 6:30 am to 4 pm daily. The journey can take anywhere between 45 minutes to 1 hour and 15 minutes. Expect to pay between $14-$24 USD depending on the boat company, type of boat and your pick-up location. On Koh Rong, the main pick-up location is Koh Rong Port (also called Koh Toch Beach), but you can also get picked up at Long Set Beach and other more remote accommodations on the island. On Koh Rong Samloem, the main pick-up location is Saracen Beach Pier, which is within walking distance from 90% of accommodations. However, you can also get picked up at M’Pai Beach or Lazy Beach.
Sihanoukville to Phnom Penh
Once you arrive at the port, you’ll need to book a van transfer or just go straight to the van company office and pay and book directly with them. None of the vans depart from the port, so you need to make your own way into Sihanoukville City Centre. From the port to the city, you have a 15-minute Tuk Tuk ride which should cost around $7 USD (split between however many people you share with). Van transfers run super frequently between Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh starting from 5 am with the last transfer departing at 9 pm daily. The van transfer takes around 5 hours and costs between $10-$17 USD depending on bus company and time of day. Overall, the journey from either Koh Rong or Koh Rong Samloem to Phnom Penh should take around 7 hours and will cost between $26-$48 USD.
How to get around Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh, while being a fairly large city, is also fairly compact as most of the sites are in the older part of the city. That means you can walk to many places such as the National Museum, Royal Palace, Wat Phnom Penh, the Russian Markets, Riverside Park and the Independence Monument. The city feels fairly safe to walk around during the day as a solo female traveller, but the footpaths can be crowded and there is a lot of traffic when crossing roads. Even busier markets in Phnom Penh like the Russian Market, felt very safe to visit alone. At night, walking around Riverside Park can feel a bit dodgy as it is not well-lit.
The alternative to walking would be to hire a Tuk Tuk or get a rideshare (Tuk Tuks are available on rideshare apps and are generally the cheapest option). Personally, I would use the rideshare apps where possible for convenience and safety. Cambodia doesn’t have Uber, but they do have Grab and their own local rideshare app called “Passapp”. Passapp has the most drivers and is generally the preferred rideshare app. Between Passap and Grab, you can get everywhere in Phnom Penh to places further out like the Killing Fields, Russian Market, and Tuol Seng Prison.
Where to stay in Phnom Penh
There are only a few popular hostels in Phnom Penh and each serves a slightly different type of traveller. As there are only a few hostels, they do tend to book out a few days in advance around peak season. If you miss out on beds at any of the more popular hostels, you can still go to visit these hostels for the events and bar or to book daily tours such as to the Killing Fields. You can book all accommodation for Phnom Penh here.
Mad Monkey– best party hostel
The Mad Monkey in Phnom Penh is the place to stay if you want to enjoy the nightlife and join events to meet other travellers. Compared to other Mad Monkeys, Phnom Penh has a slightly different vibe. It is still a party hostel, but the people are more transient as lots of people stay one night while passing through. While they don’t have curtains, the beds are fairly comfortable with good A/C and generally clean facilities. They have a cosy bar area with nightly events like pub crawls, trivia, family dinners and beer pong tournaments. They also have a garden area with a pool. The location is on a tucked-away street, within walking distance of the main area, where there are restaurants, bars and clubs. It’s also walking distance to many sights in Phnom Penh like the Russian Markets, temples, museums and the Grand Palace.
Onederz– best amenities
Onederz Hostel is a great hostel to stay in if you want a social vibe, but aren’t interested in partying or drinking as much as in Mad Monkey. The hostel has a rooftop pool, bar and restaurant area which is perfect for relaxing. The dorms are basic (no curtains) but comfortable and the facilities are relatively clean. The rooftop has a fairly social vibe, but there aren’t really specific events to help travellers meet. The one downside to Onederz is the location being on the river. For daytime sightseeing, it is a central location to walk everywhere. However, it is further to get to Bassac Lane for restaurants and bars (the nightlife spot in Phnom Penh) and to visit the Russian Markets.
Poolside Villa Hostel– best location
Poolside Villa Hostel is more of a budget hostel, but it is in the best location of any of the other hostels. The hostel is a 1-minute walk from Bassac Lane, which has the best selection of restaurants, bars and cafes. It’s also fairly central to walk to temples, markets and museums in Phnom Penh. Poolside Villa has basic dorms (no curtains) and decent/basic bathroom facilities. They also have a nice pool, bar and restaurant on the ground floor. There is a little bit of a social vibe at the bar area at night, but the hostel doesn’t organise events for meeting people.
What to do in Phnom Penh
The main reason that any tourist comes to Phnom Penh is to learn about the tragic history of the Khmer Rouge Regime and the Cambodian genocide. There are two main sites you cannot miss out on Tuol Seng Prison (also called S-21 Prison) and the Killing Fields. If you have more than half a day in Phnom Penh, there are also other sites worth visiting, such as Wat Phnom Penh Temple, the Russian Market for clothing, the Royal Palace and the National Museum.
Killing Fields and Tuol Seng Prison
If you only do one thing in Phnom Penh, it should be visiting these two sites (preferably visiting the prison first and then the Killing Fields). You can visit both these sites in a half-day if you’re short on time. If you have the time, spend a whole day learning about the history and listening to the survivor’s stories to give yourself the best possible experience. Tuol Seng Prison is within walking distance from the centre of Phnom Penh and is open from 8 am to 5 pm every day. Entry is $5 USD and it’s an additional $3 USD for the audio guide (which is a must-do). Plan to spend at least 2-3 hours here, to have enough time to listen to the audio guide stories, look at all the exhibits and walk around the prison museum.
After you visit the prison museum, make your way to The Killing Fields (also called Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre). The Killing Fields is open from 7:30 am to 5:30 pm every day and is around a 20-minute drive outside of the city. To get there you’ll need to either book a Grab or Passapp car or negotiate with a Tuk Tuk driver to take you there and back. The Killing Fields cost $6 USD to enter, which includes an audio guide. Allow around 2 hours to walk around the fields, listen to the stories in the audio guide and head to the museum section, where they have a free documentary running.
What to expect when visiting Killing Fields and Tuol Seng Prison
Visiting both the prison museum and the killing fields is an incredibly sombre experience. While most of travelling is exploring beautiful sights and doing fun activities, learning about the history of the Cambodian genocide is an incredibly important experience while travelling. However, this may not be for everyone, particularly some of the audio guide stories detailing the atrocities. If you do visit either of these sights, there are a few guidelines for visiting respectfully:
- Dress conservatively. There is a dress code for both sites requiring covering knees, shoulders, chests and midriffs.
- Keep noise to a minimum. Both sites are so silent you can hear a pin drop. Avoid speaking to other people and avoid loud noises where possible. If you must communicate with someone else, do so as quietly as possible.
- Re-consider photos. While there is no rule around photo-taking, you are visiting sites of extreme atrocity and mass graves. Reconsider taking photos in sensitive spots or of sensitive subject matter. In the Killing Fields, you can see human remains, which serve as a reminder of the genocide. The majority of visitors avoid taking photos, particularly inside.
National Museum
If you want to learn a bit more about Cambodia’s rich history, the National Museum is the best place in Cambodia to visit. It is open from 8 am to 5 pm every day except national holidays, with the latest time to enter the Museum being 3:30 pm. It costs $5 USD to enter and an additional $3 USD for an audio guide. Even if you don’t get the audio guide, there will still be many written explanations in English and French. The Museum features many ancient artefacts from the 10th-12th centuries, information on the Angkor and Bayon kingdoms and the history of the two major religions in Cambodia: Hinduism and Buddhism. Most people will spend 1-2 hours in the museum, which is located nearby to the Royal Palace.
Royal Palace
The Royal Palace is located right near the National Museum, so to maximise your time, it is best to combine visits to these two sights. Be warned, the Royal Palace has limited opening hours so you do need to plan your visit accordingly. The Royal Palace is open every day except national and religious holidays from 9 am- 11 am and then 2 pm to the last entry at 3:30 pm. They are pretty strict about these times so your best bet is to get there early. You need to wear temple attire to enter, meaning shoulders, knees, torsos and stomachs must be completely covered.
The entry fee is $10 USD and there is no audio guide, but you can pay extra for a guided tour if you want. I did not find this necessary. There are two main areas, the Silver Pagoda and the Royal Palace. You will have to remove your shoes in certain areas and photography is not allowed in the pagoda. If you don’t opt for a guided tour, 45 minutes is enough time to see the Royal Palace and the surrounding area.
Wat Phnom Temple
Wat Phnom Temple is an important historical site, so important that it is the reason for the capital being named Phnom Penh. Located on a hill in the north of the city, it is around a 20-minute walk from sights like the National Museum and Royal Palace. Wat Phnom Temple is open every day from 9 am to 5 pm, except for religious and national holidays. It costs $1 USD to enter and you must wear temple attire, so shoulders, knees, torsos and stomach must be completely covered.
The temple is surrounded by a small park which you can walk around. Once you climb the steps, to enter the actual temple building, you’ll need to take off your shoes. There are only a few informative signs in English explaining the significance of the temple, so keep an eye out for these. I would allow around 30 minutes to explore the temple and surrounding park.
Russian Market
If you want to go shopping in Phnom Penh, the Russian Market (also called Tuol Tompoung Market) is one of the best clothes markets in the whole of Southeast Asia, in my opinion. What makes the Russian Market so good is that many of the clothes are from actual brands that have factories near Phnom Penh. Some of those goods may have “fallen off the truck” and are being resold at the Russian Market. You can find brands such as Zara, Hollister, H&M, Calvin Klein, Gap, Levi Jeans and many more. They also have non-branded knock-off clothing, but you can easily spot these by the tags.
If a shop has one item in a certain brand, chances are they have more from that brand so make sure you ask. They also generally have full-size runs (no one-size-fits-all sizing), so if you see something you like, you can ask for another size. The market itself is huge, cramped and really hot (more so than other places in Phnom Penh). It’s best to try and come first thing in the morning (between 7 am and 9 am) when the temperature is more bearable. The walkways between shops are incredibly narrow, so be prepared to have to scooch around other shopping but keep your valuables close.
Apart from the clothing section, they also have a wet market, food stalls, souvenir shops and other random shops selling knick-knacks. In the Russian Market, you’ll find many Phnom Penh locals shopping as well as tourists. Haggling is expected and there are no fitting rooms to try things on, but many people will try on clothing on top of their existing clothing in the walkways.
Where to eat in Phnom Penh
There are lots of great cafes, restaurants and eateries around tourist areas in Phnom Penh, with a diverse range of cuisines. For dinner, the restaurants on Bassac Lane have the best vibe and are perfect if you want to have a few drinks after dinner or even have a night out.
Backyard Cafe
Backyard Cafe is the breakfast and brunch spot in Phnom Penh. Located in the central tourist area, they are super busy at all times of the day. Backyard Cafe serves an all-day breakfast, with many organic, vegan and gluten-free options. For lunch and dinner, they do healthy bowls and other health-conscious Western foods. They have seating indoors and outdoors, with lots of leafy plants around and just generally aesthetic cafe vibes.
Backstreet Bar
Located on Bassac Lane, Backstreet Bar is a popular bar and restaurant, whether you’re going for dinner or just a couple of casual drinks. The drinks are reasonably priced and their pizzas are too-die-for.
Elia Greek Kitchen
Elia Greek Kitchen is also located on Bassac Lane and is more of a “treat yourself” dinner venue. They offer authentic Greek cuisine and have a decent selection of wines. Elia has heaps of seating both in their garden area and inside. While they serve drinks, it is more of a restaurant vibe than a lively bar atmosphere.
Nightlife in Phnom Penh
While Phnom Penh doesn’t quite have the party reputation that Siem Reap does with the famous Pub Street, there are still good nightlife options. Mad Monkey hostel hosts nightly events like trivia, beer pong tournaments and pub crawls, which are perfect for meeting people and making friends to go out with for the night. Regardless of whether you stay here, I would recommend going here for pre-drinks and participating in the events if you’re a solo travelling wanting a night out.
Bar hop on Bassac Lane
Bassac Lane is the restaurant and nightlife spot for backpackers in Phnom Penh. If you’re not going to Mad Monkey, this is the perfect place to start with dinner and drinks. There are many bars along this street so it’s easy to bar-hop and find a place that matches your vibe. Backstreet Bar and Red Bar and two bars on Bassac Lane, which are generally pretty popular and busy. Most of the bars on Bassac Lane are more sit-down and talk kind of bars, as opposed to dancing.
Club Love for dancing
If you want a late night or want to go somewhere to dance after drinking at Bassac Lane, Club Love is the place to go. It’s a short walk from Bassac Lane (in between Bassac Lane and Mad Monkey Hostel). They have reasonably priced drinks, and DJs and play songs that everyone knows. It is mainly a backpacker/expat crowd and it stays open until late. Don’t get there before around 11:30 pm as it will most likely be pretty dead.
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