Thailand is a fairly easy country to navigate and get around while backpacking! They have sleeper trains, buses, ferries, speedboats, scooter rentals, taxis, Tuk Tuks and Grabcars in Thailand. There are also established backpacking routes, with plenty of transport options running along these routes. Transport is generally pretty easy to book through hostels or online through websites like 12GOAsia. Below is my full guide on getting around Thailand as a backpacker. This includes everything from planning your route to the sleeper train, night buses and tips for ferries in Thailand.
Planning your Thailand Route
As Thailand is a long country, most people travel south to north or north to south, following similar routes. While you don’t necessarily need to plan your route in advance, knowing where you want to go and in what order can help you avoid backtracking. Most backpackers will start their travels in either Bangkok or Phuket due to the ease and cost of international flights into these cities. You can also fly into places like Chiang Mai, Krabi or Koh Samui from overseas, but these are less ideal places to start, and flights are less frequent and generally more expensive. The other place some people start is Chiang Rai if they have come across the border from Laos using the slow boat.
Below is a map of the most common backpacker route, which you can travel either North to South or South to North:
Planning your route around the Full Moon Party
The one thing that will affect your travel route is whether you plan on attending any festivals or events in Thailand. Full Moon Party in Koh Phangan is on many backpackers’ bucket lists, so you will want to plan your trip around being in Koh Phangan for these dates. There is a semi-official full moon party website that posts accurate dates; you can find the website here. I also have a full guide to the Full Moon Festival parties, including tips and tricks here.
If you cannot make attending a Full Moon Party work with your dates, a great alternative is the Half Moon Festival on Koh Phangan; you can find future dates on this website. Regardless of whether you go to Full Moon or Half Moon, you must book your accommodation and bus/ferry tickets at least a week in advance (if not more). Particularly for Full Moon Party, it is extremely popular and hostels and ferries will book out. Also, to have the best experience of the Full Moon Party, you will want to arrive at least 2 days earlier to attend the pre-moon parties.
Other festivals and events to keep in mind
The other events which may affect your travel plans may be Songkran (Thai New Year) or Yipeng/ Loi Krathong Festivals (the Lantern Festival). Songkran is a festival where everyone has a massive water fight in the streets with water pistols and water balloons. It occurs in April, and most travellers prefer to celebrate it in bigger cities such as Bangkok, Phuket or Chiang Mai. Yipeng and Loi Krathong Festivals involve mass lantern releases into the sky and flower offerings on the water. Yipeng occurs in November and in Chiang Mai only. I went last year (it was amazing) and have a full guide to the festival here. With either of these festivals, you must book accommodation and transport in advance!
Where to book trains, buses and ferries in Thailand
Booking sleeper trains, buses and ferries in Thailand is fairly easy, and there are many ways you can do this. You can book transport at the bus, train and ferry terminals. However, there is a risk with this if you are booking a same-day ticket, that they may be sold out and the bus is full. The other place you can usually book transport is from hostels. This can sometimes be super beneficial as they may include a free pickup or transfer to the bus terminal for booking with them instead of online. Another place you can book transfers is from a travel agency or tour company. The main risk with this is that they survive off commission, so often prices will be marked up and more expensive than booking directly.
The majority of travellers will book their tickets online. There are many reliable websites for booking transport, but the most popular is 12GOAsia. You can type in any two locations, and it will give you multiple transport options and times and let you book tickets. Unless it specifically says “self-transfer” (I’ve seen very few of these), all tickets are combined tickets, so connections are guaranteed. That means that if you have to catch two buses to get somewhere, if the first bus is running late, the second bus will wait or they will arrange an alternative method of transport. Whereas, if you book it as two separate tickets or as a self-transfer, you risk getting stranded overnight in a random town if you miss your second bus.
Domestic flights in Thailand
There are quite a few domestic and international airports around Thailand, so it is possible to fly between destinations. The following destinations have airports: Bangkok, Phuket, Krabi, Surat Thani, Koh Samui, Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai. All other destinations will only be accessible via bus, train or ferry. You can get some affordable flights as well with budget carriers within Thailand. I’ve seen one-way flights from as low as 400 THB Thai Baht ($11.50 USD). Flying in Thailand will also save a lot of time in many cases; what might be a 16 hr night sleeper train may only be a 2-hour flight.
Personally, I’m not a fan of flying as a method of getting around Thailand; here’s why:
- Environmental impact. Short-haul flights are the worst offenders for carbon emissions.
- Luggage. Sometimes you pay more to check a bag than you did for the flight itself
- Having to get to and from the airport. Airports are often further out of town (as compared to bus terminals and train stations), so you have the extra price and time factor of getting to and from the airports.
- Time wasted at the airport. You always have to get to the airport at least 30 minutes (sometimes more) before a flight, which is more time it adds to your journey. Buses and trains, you usually only have to be there 10 minutes before.
- Frequency and choice of time. Quite often, for the more affordable flights, you’ll leave either early in the morning or late at night. With buses and trains, the prices are usually much of the same regardless of what time you choose. Then you can choose the time of day that works best for you.
Sleeper trains in Thailand
Sleeper trains are a super popular way to get from one city to another in Thailand. There are a number of sleeper train routes around Thailand, but the two popular ones with backpackers are Chiang Mai- Bangkok, Ayutthaya to Chiang Mai and Bangkok to Surat Thani. You can travel either way on these routes via sleeper train. I’ve travelled by sleeper train on each of these routes, so here and my best tips and advice for the sleeper train.
Thailand Sleeper Train Classes
Sleeper trains in Thailand have different classes, which feature different amenities. Not every train and route will have each of the different seat types, and quite often, popular seat types may be sold out. Ensure you purchase sleeper train tickets at least 48 hours in advance to avoid disappointment. Purchasing the wrong seat type and class can make a huge difference on a 15-hour overnight journey. I’ve gone into detail about the different seat classes below, ranging from least to most expensive:
Third Class
This is the most affordable ticket on the sleeper train, but it is pretty basic! I’ve never met anyone who has travelled third class on a Thailand sleeper train (not even super-budget backpackers). The seats are not individual seats but benches with no tables or footrests. There is no way to recline the seat, so you sit upright the whole way. You have access to a toilet but nothing else. No blankets, pillows or curtains are provided. The carriage is cooled by fans only, which can be uncomfortable on hot nights. Luggage is stored wherever you can fit it.
Second Class- Seat (Fan)
Second-class seats are comfortable padded individual seats. The seats recline to a small degree but still have no table or footrest. You are not provided with any blanket or pillow. You also have shared toilets on board, which are basic but usable. The carriage is cooled by fans only, but you have windows you can open, and they have shutters to keep out some of the light.
Second Class- Seat (A/C)
This is the exact same seat type as the one listed above, but instead of fans, there is air-conditioning. The most common mistake people make is accidentally booking second-class A/C seats when they want a second-class A/C sleeper.
Second Class- Sleeper (Fan)
This seat type is initially a seat but gets converted into a bed where you can lay down flat. When it is a seat, you have a full table in the booth. The bed is made up with linens, and you are given a blanket and pillow. The beds have privacy curtains also. For the top bunk, there is a small ladder to access, and you have a strap or two across the bunk to stop you from rolling out. Luggage is stored in the middle of the aisle, but you can keep electronics and other valuables with you in the bunk. There are only fans cooling the carriage, but if you are on a bottom bunk, you can open the window. Top bunks have no window, so good luck!
Second Class- Sleeper (A/C)
This is the recommended class type for backpackers if you want a decent night’s sleep! This seat type is generally one of the first to sell out, so you do need to book in advance. It is exactly the same set up as the above category, but instead with A/C. The A/C works very well (sometimes a little too well), so you can expect a comfortable sleep.
First Class Cabin (A/C)
This is the most luxurious option on the Thailand sleeper train and the only private room! First-class cabins have two seats, which turn into two bunk beds. You’re provided with all linens, blankets and pillows. There is A/C in the private room, which is lockable from the inside. There is also luggage storage inside. They also have a charging socket, light switch, small sink and window. You still have shared bathroom amenities, though.
Tips for the Thailand Sleeper Trains
- Make sure you book the right class/ seat type! Book your seat a few days to avoid disappointment, as popular seat classes tend to sell out.
- Bring snacks with you. Sometimes they have food sold on board; other times, they don’t. Either way, buying food and snacks from 7/11 and bringing them with you will always be better.
- Pack warm layers! Sometimes the aircon works too well (particularly on the top bunk as you are directly beneath it), so you may need to rug up.
- Try and book the bottom bunk. The top bunk is closer to the light and the aircon, which can be annoying for sleeping. Also, even though there is a strap to stop you from rolling out, you can still roll out.
- There are no charging sockets, so bring a power bank or charge up electronics in advance.
- Make sure you sleep with all your valuables in your bed with you. Luggage is just left in the aisle and is easily accessible if somebody wanted to open your bag.
- If you are travelling with someone, book your tickets together in one transaction, as you are more likely to get seats assigned next to each other.
- You won’t be asleep the entire time. Most journeys are 12-16 hours long. Bring card games, download movies offline or enjoy the views.
- The sleeper trains run on Thailand time and are often late to depart or late to arrive. I had one arrive 4 hours after the initial arrival time. Make sure you don’t plan any onward connections soon after the train arrival time.
- When you first get on the train, your bed will be a normal seat. Don’t try and fold it out yourself. At a certain time (different for every train), the attendant will come around and transform everyone’s seats into beds.
Sleeper Train Vs. Night Bus
Virtually every route in Thailand that a sleeper train operates, there is a night bus option. Personally, I prefer the sleeper train over the night bus, but they both have advantages. If you’re tossing up between booking the night bus or the sleeper train, here are a few things to consider:
- Price. Night buses are, on average 200 THB Thai Baht ($5.50 USD) cheaper than the train. Depending on availability and dates, sometimes the train is much more expensive! This is comparing this sleeper seat with the night bus reclinable seat types.
- Comfortable bed/seat. If you get a sleeper seat on a train, it will fully recline like a bed, and you have a privacy curtain to block light. If you get a seat on the night bus, it will recline to about 90 degrees, and you have a footrest.
- Noise. Personally, I found the night bus to be much quieter. Generally, the bus won’t stop to let people off, and everyone travels the same route (e.g. Chiang Mai- Bangkok). Sleeper trains make many stops in the middle of the night, where locals get off and on and can be noisy. One sleeper train had a stop at midnight where people walked through the cabin selling food, yelling the prices and waking everyone up.
- Amenities. They both pretty much have the same amenities: toilet on board (but both are pretty grim) and provide blanket and pillow.
- Time. Night buses are generally faster by around 2-3 hours.
- Experience. The sleeper train! The sleeper trains in Thailand are an experience in themselves, and you get much better countryside views.
Buses in Thailand
There are heaps of bus routes between cities, both on day and night buses. Day buses, depending on the route and how busy it is, may sometimes actually be smaller vans. With both day and night buses, you must give them your larger luggage item to stow at the start of the journey. You can take a smaller day pack or bag on board with you. Ensure you have everything you need from your main bag, as you won’t have access to it until you depart the bus. They are generally air-conditioned (sometimes not very well, though) and will have comfy seats.
Buses and vans are generally pretty full on popular routes. Sometimes they even pick up locals en route who sit on stools in the aisles as there are no seats. Day buses generally stop every 2-4 hours for toilet and food breaks. Check with the driver how long you have at the stop so they don’t accidentally leave without you!
Night buses in Thailand are generally of pretty good quality! With night buses, the seats will recline 90% of the way back, and you will have a footrest. They will have toilets on board (generally, these are pretty grim though). Night buses often have charging points and curtains on the window side to block out light. Sometimes, they supply blankets and pillows and even food and water. If it is a night bus leaving before 9 pm, they usually stop somewhere about 1-2 hours in, where you can buy hot food for dinner. Night buses tend to be pretty cold in South East Asia (generally), so make sure you have plenty of warm layers you can pile on at night.
Ferries and speedboats in Thailand
If you are heading to Railay Beach, Phi Phi Island, Koh Tao, Koh Samui or Koh Phangan, you must book a ferry, speedboat or longtail boat. These are all extremely popular backpacker destinations, so boats run regularly and are easy to book. To get to most of these places, you will have the option of both a speedboat and a ferry. Speedboats are much faster than ferries but usually a little more expensive. However, ferries are better if you suffer from seasickness. Speedboats are smaller, and you tend to feel every wave and movement of the ocean. Ferries move slower and are larger, so the journey tends to be less bumpy, meaning many people won’t feel as sick.
Tips for ferries, speedboats and longtails in Thailand
- Expect delays! Most boats I got on in South East Asia did not depart or arrive on time. If you are making onward travel connections, make sure you allow plenty of time. Alternatively, if you book it as a combined ticket on 12GOAsia, all connections will be guaranteed, so you don’t need to worry if the boat is delayed.
- Check the arrival and departure port/pier. Even in small places like Railay Beach, there are two departure points. Try and book ports and piers closer to where you are staying to avoid unnecessary travel time.
- Usually, you will not carry your luggage across the gangplank onto the ferry. They will ask you to leave it in a pile on the pier. This is the standard process! Follow all instructions from the people who work on the boat. They will load all luggage into a luggage compartment.
- It takes ages to disembark! Similarly, with planes, everyone does that thing where they immediately stand up and start queuing, filling up the aisles to collect their luggage. It can be chaos!
- If you’re looking for information on the overnight ferry to and from Koh Tao, you can read my guide here. Warning: it is not the most comfortable journey ever!
A few notes on the longtail from Railay Beach
- Some boats will be small longtails, such as getting to and from Railay Beach. On these boats, you and your luggage may get wet from the spray of the waves. You will also have to carry your luggage across the gangplank, but usually, the boat driver helps everyone. If the boat is departing or arriving at high tide, you may have to walk through up to waist-deep water to get to the boat.
- The longtail boat from Railay to Ao Nang runs on a demand-only basis, as opposed to a timetable. You can read more about this in my post here.
Rideshare apps in Thailand
There is no Uber in Thailand, but Grab is essentially the same thing. Grab is super user-friendly and easy to use. However, will need a sim card to set up Grab, as they need to send you a text to verify your number. Grab is all over Thailand, but some places won’t have drivers, so you must rely on Taxis. You can use Grab in the following cities: Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Phuket, Krabi, Ao Nang, Ayutthaya (very few drivers) and Kanchanaburi (very few drivers). In every other place, you must rely on taxis, Tuk Tuks or getting around on foot.
Like Uber, Grab is fairly safe and will show you driver reviews and keep track of your journey. There is an option to report a driver or make an emergency call should anything happen. I prefer to use Grab to taxis or Tuk Tuks as there is a record of the driver and journey, which deters the driver from doing anything untoward. There is also a Grab Food option using the same app, which is the same as Uber Eats (perfect for hungover bed days).
Taxis in Thailand
I will always try to use Grab, where I can do the ease of booking and the safety. If you are somewhere where there is no Grab or you can’t get a driver, a taxi or Tuk Tuk will be your next bet. Taxis in Thailand come in various bright colours, such as pink, green, yellow and blue. You can easily spot them as they will say “taxi” on the side and have a taxi sign on the roof as well. In any tourist area, there will generally be many taxis hanging around and driving past. Standard taxis will fit four passengers, but there are larger taxis in bigger cities, but they can be harder to find. Taxis do not have set prices or a meter, so you will have to haggle the price of the journey before you get in.
Tuk Tuks in Thailand
Tuk Tuks are automated three-wheeled vehicles with open sides. They are common around South East Asia and are an alternative to taxis. Riding in a Tuk Tuk is an experience in itself and something I think everyone should try at least once! Similar to taxis, prices are negotiable, so agree on a price before you get in. In a standard Tuk Tuk, you can usually squeeze in 4 people at most (not including the driver). There are some bigger Tuk Tuks, which are more like open-air trucks in cities like Chiang Mai, where you can fit up to 12 people! Most Tuk Tuks have a cover or tarp over the back, which protects them from the wind and elements so a certain degree. Tuk Tuks will generally only drive you around a city and cannot be used as transport for longer day trips out of the city or between cities.
Tips for using Taxis and Tuk Tuks in Thailand:
- Always haggle! Their initial price will always be much higher than the standard going rate for the journey. Feel free to walk away if they won’t lower the price. A few times, I told drivers, “It’s only 20 minutes. I’ll just walk,” they chased me and offered me a much lower price which I accepted.
- Make sure you agree on the price before you get in the car or put your luggage in the boot!
- Use google translate to communicate the address. Don’t be afraid to show them on a map or point out a nearby landmark like a pagoda. There are so many hostels and hotels with similar names, so it is not uncommon to get accidentally dropped at the wrong address.
- In cities with traffic jams, like Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Phuket, Tuk Tuks can be better than Taxis. Due to their size, Tuk Tuks can manoeuvre around traffic (sometimes even up on the sidewalk) and will get you there faster.
- Try to avoid Tuk Tuks if it is raining. They have a cover around them, but if it is raining heavily or the rain is coming in at an angle- you will get wet.
Renting a scooter in Thailand
Renting a scooter to get around Thailand is by far one of the most convenient and cost-effective ways to get around. Many hostels will assist with scooter rentals on-site or recommend reliable rental companies. Otherwise, you can google scooter rental companies and choose the most reliable based on reviews. Some companies have bad reputations for scamming travellers, renting faulty scooters or claiming tourists damaged scooters when actually the scratches were pre-existing. Make sure you do your research to avoid being scammed! Renting scooters up-front for a few days is usually more cost-effective than renting daily. You can generally rent a scooter everywhere for around 200 THB Thai Baht ($5.50 USD) per day.
Scooters are pretty dangerous, and a lot (and I really mean a lot) of travellers have accidents. Every second backpacker in South East Asia has a scooter accident story. It is THAT common. While most of the time, people end up with minor cuts, grazes and gravel rash and a bit of a bruised ego, I met many people with serious scooter accident stories. Broken legs, fractured collarbones, and people having to return home and cut their trip short to recover from serious injuries. Also, not to be morbid, backpackers do die in scooter accidents. When I was in Canggu, another traveller died on the back of a motorbike as a drunk tourist hit her. It was tragic and shook many people in the backpacking/ex-pat community in Canggu- a stern reminder of the dangers of scooters.
A warning about scooters in South East Asia!
You need an international driver’s license to ride a scooter in Asia. I’ve heard that it’s super easy to apply for one in most travellers’ home countries and relatively inexpensive. However, most travellers either aren’t aware of this or don’t bother to get one before they leave home. The scooter companies will still rent a scooter to you regardless of whether you have a proper license. Driving without an international license, you can be fined a fair bit of money or face prison if you refuse to pay.
Even worse, if you are in a severe accident and were driving without an international license at the time, it is highly likely your travel insurance will not pay for your medical expenses. Most travel insurers have a clause stating they will not pay for medical bills which result from you committing an illegal activity. As driving without an international license (while commonplace) is technically illegal, insurance companies will not cover you for scooter accidents.
If you want to rent a scooter in Thailand, my recommendations would be:
- Take a scooter lesson when you arrive to learn about road rules and safety from a local. I did one for less than $5 USD, which made me more confident.
- Get an international license from your home country before you travel. It’s cheap and easy in most countries so that you won’t be fined excess money in Thailand.
- Don’t drive drunk. You’d think it would be common sense, but there’s something about the scene in many parts of South East Asia where it’s normalised. By all means, drive your scooter during the day sober. At night, jump in a grab. They are literally so cheap.
- Make sure you always lock your scooter and keep the key somewhere safe. You’d be surprised how often someone is tearing apart the dorm looking for a scooter key.
- Take photos and videos of the scooter’s condition before you rent it. Otherwise, you will be charged for scratches or dents already on the vehicle.
- Be mindful of using your phone while driving or any passengers using their phones. Phone grabbing from other vehicles is not uncommon and can cause serious accidents. For directions, either get the back passenger to discretely use their phone from their lap or have Google map directions playing in your AirPods, so you don’t even need your phone out.
Walking around in Thailand
Thailand is very much geared towards tourism, and there are tourists everywhere! Walking around feels extremely safe, even alone at night as a solo female traveller. Given scooters are king; you often won’t find locals or even ex-pats walking many longer distances. It can also be a bit trickier walking in Thailand. There are many places where there aren’t any footpaths, so you have to walk on the side of the road. If there is a footpath, I can guarantee you it will be used as scooter parking, so not really easy to use. Walking on the side of the road is normal, and traffic will move around you.
The only other thing that is important to be wary of is dogs. In many parts of South East Asia, dogs are not so much kept as pets; they are fed and used to guard an area. Sometimes dogs can bark or growl at you for just walking past a place. Sometimes, they might even chase you or try and nip/ bite you. It’s not super common in Thailand, but it did happen to me a few times in Indonesia and Cambodia. Just be super-mindful of stray dogs and their body language; it is always better to give them a wide berth.
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